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If you’ve been to Greece, you might know about the practice of throwing toilet paper in the bin instead of flushing it. This isn’t something you usually see in other parts of Europe, but in Greece, you’ll find signs in bathrooms instructing, “Do not throw paper in the toilet!” This is for those who might not be familiar with this unique custom.

The plumbing in Greece just can’t handle toilet paper being flushed. If I were a restaurant owner dealing with frequent blockages, I’d put up signs to make this clear too.

You might wonder why Greece hasn’t adopted more robust plumbing systems like the rest of Europe. Maybe their sewage systems can’t handle it either. However, putting all that paper into landfills doesn’t seem ideal.

It’s one of those puzzling things that gets more confusing the more you think about it. It’s probably best not to overthink it while you’re enjoying some ouzo.

It’s often a relief to get home and know you can flush without worry. If you’ve been to Greece, I hope this didn’t ruin your moussaka and chips!

Do you have any bathroom stories from your travels you’d like to share? Or maybe not…

Lash from LashWorldTours shares her outdoor adventures on Bali, Indonesia, also known as the Island of the Gods. While Bali is famous for its beautiful beaches and surfing, it also offers some of the best reefs for diving in Asia, white water rafting, cycling through paddy fields, and hiking up volcanoes.

Of all the places I’ve visited in my 15 years of traveling, Bali is where I’d love to live long-term. When I first visited in 2001, I only knew it as a volcanic island with a rich artistic heritage and a large tourist industry. During my two-month trip, I immersed myself in Balinese arts, cycled across the island, climbed its major volcanoes, and enjoyed beach-side clubbing. I quickly fell in love with Bali and have returned many times, usually staying for 4-6 months to teach scuba diving and explore more.

Bali offers something unique to every type of visitor. Surfers find it a premier destination, young Australians see it as a party paradise, and luxury vacationers enjoy its world-class resorts. Spiritual seekers come for yoga, detox, and meditation, while scuba divers are drawn to its pristine reefs and rare marine life. Art lovers admire Bali’s unique painting styles, and musicians study its gamelan music. Creative entrepreneurs design and manufacture various products here.

However, many Americans and Europeans might only see Bali as an over-developed tourist spot, similar to Waikiki Beach. This perception can deter independent travelers and nature lovers, which is unfortunate because Bali is a paradise for nature enthusiasts. While the touristy areas do exist, they are confined to the southern shores. The rest of Bali, which makes up 80-90% of the island, is a lush, tropical paradise with unique cultural arts and outdoor adventures.

Bali is dominated by several high volcanic peaks considered sacred by the Balinese. The island features steep slopes, canyons, gorges, and winding mountain roads, all covered in dense tropical foliage. It also has miles of undeveloped beaches, fast-flowing rivers, terraced rice fields, sacred crater lakes, and pristine coral reefs. Over the past decade, Bali has been promoting itself as an eco-adventure destination, offering activities like white-water rafting, snorkeling, scuba diving, sailing, hiking, mountain climbing, cycling, and windsurfing.

Bali’s scuba diving industry has been established for over two decades, with world-class dive operators guiding divers year-round. The best dive areas are in Amed, Mengingan, and southeast Bali. Cycling has also gained popularity, with guided tours through rice fields and down Mt. Batur volcano. Independent cyclists can explore the island, immersing themselves in local culture and scenery. Bali’s roads are in good condition, and cyclists will find plenty of local food, places to stay, and friendly people.

Hiking and mountain climbing have been popular for at least two decades, with guided treks to the summits of Mt. Agung and Mt. Batur. Other hiking options include the 1700 steps of Pura Lempuyang Temple and the trails in Bali Barat National Park. Independent hikers can explore the seaside hills of Amed, offering spectacular views and glimpses of rural Balinese life.

I hope this post helps spread the word about the real Bali, beyond its touristy areas, and highlights its lush nature and eco-friendly outdoor adventures. For more information on diving, cycling, hiking, or other activities in Bali, feel free to email me at [email protected], read my blog, or check out my guidebooks: Hiking in Bali and Cycling in Bali.

In July 2010, I traveled to Oberammergau in southern Germany to witness the renowned Oberammergau Passion Play and explore the surrounding Bavarian region over five days. The Passion Play, which depicts the life, death, and resurrection of Christ, began in 1633 when the bubonic plague threatened the village. The villagers vowed to God that if they were spared, they would perform this play every ten years. Miraculously, the deaths ceased, and the villagers have kept their promise ever since.

From Ash Wednesday, the residents of Oberammergau stop shaving and avoid hair salons to grow their hair and beards for the play, ensuring authenticity. Over half of the town’s 5,000 residents participate in the production, whether as performers, costume makers, or in other roles, including feeding and housing visitors. Even animals like donkeys have roles in the play.

If you’re considering auditioning for future productions, note that only those born in Oberammergau or who have lived there for over 20 years are eligible. Those with experience in previous plays may take on principal roles in later years. The play runs from May to September, five days a week, for five hours each day, starting in the mid-afternoon and continuing into the evening with a dinner break. The specially constructed theater shelters the audience and orchestra, while the actors perform in the open air, adding a touch of realism if it rains.

Oberammergau is worth visiting year-round, nestled in a valley surrounded by Alpine mountains. The town is famous for its wood carvers and beautifully painted traditional houses. Between Passion Play years, you can visit the Museum of Oberammergau and nearby Linderhof Castle, explore woodcarving studios, and enjoy the mountain scenery.

Due to high demand and the play’s infrequent schedule, tickets are scarce and often booked well in advance. Most visitors join organized tours that include the play and other destinations in Germany and Austria, such as Heidelberg, Innsbruck, Salzburg, or Lake Garda.

I visited Oberammergau for the Passion Play in July 2010 as part of a five-day tour starting in Munich. If you’re planning a future visit, some travel companies specializing in religious pilgrimages may still offer tours. Alternatively, you can purchase a ticket for the play independently. Though tours can be expensive, the experience is truly once-in-a-lifetime.

For accommodations, consider these recommended hotels in Oberammergau:

– **Hotel Maximilian**: A 5-star Alpine design hotel with a spa, sauna, traditional Bavarian bar, and upscale restaurant, centrally located in Oberammergau.
– **Landhotel Böld**: A 4-star hotel with contemporary Bavarian decor and scenic views of the Alps, located by the river Ammer on the edge of the town center.
– **Parkhotel Sonnenhof**: A 4-star Alpine-style hotel with a spa and indoor swimming pool, located on the edge of Oberammergau, just across the river from the old town.

For more information on planning your visit, check out the official Oberammergau Passion Play website and the Germany Travel and Bavaria tourism websites. If you need a guidebook, we recommend “A Pilgrim’s Guide to Oberammergau” or the DK Eyewitness and Lonely Planet Germany Travel Guides.

My guest post today takes us to the Bahia region of Brazil, a place known for its laid-back lifestyle, beautiful beaches, diverse wildlife, and national parks. Bahia is larger than most European countries, and I’m grateful to have my guest writer Modi to guide us through it.

Bahia is one of Brazil’s most vibrant regions, especially striking to Westerners due to its rich cultural diversity. Brazil is a vast country, slightly smaller than the US but larger than Europe (excluding Russia), so planning your trip in advance is essential unless you have years to explore.

With an area of 564,000 square kilometers and a population of nearly 14 million, Bahia is larger than Spain and twice the size of Great Britain. For Europeans, visiting Bahia feels like traveling to another country. Culturally, historically, and naturally, Bahia stands out. It was here that the Portuguese first “discovered” Brazil in 1500, making it part of their empire. The Dutch briefly took control, and it was in Bahia that many African slaves were brought to work on plantations.

After the abolition of slavery, the Portuguese left the former slaves to fend for themselves, which is why Bahia remains the most culturally diverse part of Brazil, with people of European descent being a minority. This history also contributes to Bahia being one of Brazil’s poorest regions, with high unemployment rates, especially in the capital, Salvador.

Bahia offers a variety of attractions, from stunning national parks and scenic valleys to pristine beaches and beautiful islands. The most famous national park is Chapada Diamantina, known for its steep cliffs and diverse wildlife, including snakes, large mammals, birds, and insects. The beaches around Porto Seguro, such as Trancoso, Caraiva, and Itacare, are also popular destinations. Caraiva is a remote seaside village with no electricity except for petrol generators, and Itacare hosts the Brazilian surfing championship annually.

Caravelas, a quiet village between a river and the sea, offers an authentic Bahian experience and is a gateway to Abrolhos National Marine Park, where Charles Darwin once conducted research. The park is perfect for scuba diving and snorkeling, with its clear waters and vibrant marine life.

Bahian people, or Bahianos, are known for their friendliness, simplicity, and openness. They are often seen as “cool” because they seem to live without stress, always ready for a laugh, dance, or chat. This laid-back attitude has led to the stereotype that Bahianos are lazy, especially among wealthier southern Brazilians. Bahia is also a great place to learn Portuguese, as the locals speak slowly and are patient with foreigners.

The daily life in Bahia is heavily influenced by African culture, evident in the food (mainly seafood), music (axe, forró), religion (Candombe), and martial arts (Capoeira). A visit to Salvador, Bahia’s capital, is a must, as it is a central hub for travelers.

While some tourist guides label Bahia as dangerous, avoiding big cities and not flaunting valuables can help you stay safe. Showing respect to the locals, who may not have as much as you, will make your experience more enjoyable. In smaller towns, you’ll feel safe and welcomed. All you need is common sense and a bit of empathy for the local people’s challenges.

On a winter’s day, I find myself daydreaming about the cozy lounge at Avenue Hotel in Copenhagen. The warm Danish charm of the place has captivated me. I imagine myself curled up on a soft, crushed velvet sofa in front of a flickering fire, leisurely flipping through a designer coffee table book.

The white pillar candles flicker, dripping wax onto an antique silver tray, while nightlights glow in their colored glass holders. I might even help myself to a chocolate thoughtfully left out on the table. I admire the kilims covering the oak floor and perhaps plan a trip to Marrakesh, imagining the thrill of bargaining with a carpet seller in the souk while sipping fresh mint tea from an ornate silver teapot. I covet the design classics like the coffee tables I’ve seen in designer magazines, the Bestlite lamps I want for my living room, and the soft woven Missoni throws that resemble semi-precious stones.

Above me, abstract photos in glowing colors catch my eye. I might order some tapas or today’s hot dish from the bar menu and later pour myself a nightcap from the drinks tray on the bar. Whether sharing a drink and gossip with friends or sitting alone to people-watch, Avenue Hotel’s lounge feels like a home away from home in Copenhagen.

When arriving from the airport by train to the Forum metro station a couple of blocks away, you might easily pass by Avenue Hotel, nestled in a residential neighborhood with cyclists whizzing by on the busy Åboulevard leading into town. With its large floor-to-ceiling windows, it looks almost like an interior design showroom or the turn-of-the-century apartment building it once was. The staff are lovely and efficient, and everyone in Copenhagen seems to speak perfect English.

At the back, there’s a decking patio for enjoying the outdoor lifestyle, complete with awnings, soft cushions, and lanterns flickering. During Halloween, I found pumpkin masks there. Behind the patio, there’s a small car park and a place to store or rent a bike. In Copenhagen, it’s customary to go everywhere by bike, whether dressed for a party in high heels or wrapped in a warm scarf and fur-lined boots.

I took the small lift up to my third-floor room, which had a quiet view of other neighborhood apartment blocks. Each of the 68 rooms, carved out of the original apartment building, varies in shape and size. I was lucky to have a spacious room with a sofa and desk. While the lounge has an exotic feel, the rooms are more about pale Scandinavian design with cream carpets, tan leather chairs against a glossy black desk, and gorgeous colored Missoni bedspreads.

The double bed, actually twin mattresses and duvets, was super comfortable with puffy and warm duvets. The clean lines continued into the bathroom, which had a functional feel with double sinks, a wall of mirrors, plain white tiles, a hairdryer, and neatly lined-up toiletries. Despite the sign encouraging environmental responsibility by hanging up used towels, I found fresh ones upon my return, or perhaps they were folded so cleverly that I couldn’t tell the difference.

Everything was fresh and clean, although there were a few signs of wear and tear, such as refreshed grouting in the bathroom and some marks on the tan cotton sofa covers. I loved walking up the elegant period staircase, which felt like the old apartment building, past the electric blue or burnt orange curtains. The corridors meandered charmingly at odd angles, reminiscent of large Victorian houses in England converted into flats, where communal areas open up to more elegant scenes behind each front door.

Breakfast was a delightful spread of croissants, cereal, juices, and a variety of cold hams and local cheeses. The Danes love their bread, and I eyed the dense bricks of sourdough with seeds on top. There was even a machine that cut thin slices of cheese. I calmed my excitement with a refreshing pot of Moroccan fresh mint tea in a silver teapot while munching on meusli, surrounded by arty food photos by Danish food photographer Claes Bech-Poulson.

Avenue Hotel appeals to a variety of guests. During the week, it’s popular with Danes on business, while on weekends, I spotted couples, groups of friends, and families with children. Although the hotel has a grown-up feel, younger guests are welcome with family rooms and a sandpit out back, creating a relaxed and informal atmosphere. As children get older, why shouldn’t they be introduced to lovely places like Avenue?

In terms of location, Avenue Hotel isn’t right in the center but not too far either. I love exploring the city on foot, and it took me about 15 minutes to stroll down the main road, past the lakes and endless stream of bikes, to reach the Tivoli Gardens. From the airport, it’s a direct line to the nearest Forum metro stop, a 10-minute walk from the hotel, and the journey takes around 20 minutes. The metro also takes you into the central area, or you can take several buses near the hotel, or it’s a 15-minute brisk walk to Tivoli Gardens. You could also hire a bike from the hotel.

You might not be able to pop back every five minutes between sightseeing, but you’ll look forward to returning to Avenue Hotel at the end of the day, sinking into those comfy sofas and sipping a cocktail in front of the fire. On a winter’s day, there’s no better place to be cozy in Copenhagen.

Rooms at Avenue Hotel, Copenhagen typically range from DKK 1200 for a standard double to DKK 1450 for a larger A+ room on a springtime Saturday night. The room rate includes breakfast with home-baked bread and taxes.

July is almost here, and if you’re a culture enthusiast looking for some sunshine, Europe with its ancient cities, warm climate, and delicious food is probably on your mind. But, like us, you might not want to spend a fortune on another pricey vacation, especially with popular spots like Mallorca, Santorini, and Venice expecting huge crowds and high prices.
Luckily, we’ve found the best value-for-money destination in Europe for this summer, and we’re excited to share it with you:
The Algarve is the most affordable summer destination in Europe. According to the latest Holiday Money Report by the U.K. Post Office, Portugal’s Algarve is the cheapest and the only European destination in the top five for ‘Holiday Money Value’ this year. It outperforms places like Sunny Beach in Bulgaria, Paphos in Cyprus, Costa del Sol in Spain, and even Marmaris in Turkey, with travelers spending around $75 per day, excluding accommodation.
The Algarve stands out from Europe’s popular summer spots with beachside hotel stays starting at just $79 and some of the lowest local consumer prices in Europe. On average, a meal at a mid-range restaurant costs about $16. Plus, it’s the southernmost and sunniest region of Portugal, boasting 300 days of sunshine a year. It’s not only affordable but also renowned for its stunning coastline.
Unlike Mediterranean countries, Portugal faces the Atlantic Ocean, offering warm weather similar to Spain. The Algarve’s 96-mile south-facing coast features majestic cliffs and beautiful beaches. Unlike Croatia or Italy, the Algarve’s 100 beaches are sandy, with clear waters and a variety of spots from resort-lined oceanfronts to hidden coves.
Lagos, on the western end of the Algarve, is a popular destination known for its castle, sandy beaches, and relaxed vibe. Albufeira offers cobbled streets, casual bars, and beach clubs, while Faro is famous for its walled Old Town, Baroque monuments, and seafood. These are just a few of the Algarve’s popular towns, but there are many quaint seaside villages with boutique hotels to explore.
Carvoeiro, with its whitewashed houses overlooking the sea, Olhão, known for its historic center and fisheries, and Ferragudo, with its charming streets and colorful porches, are some of the Algarve’s hidden gems.
The Algarve’s natural beauty is its greatest asset. Imagine wooden stairways leading to secret beaches, hiking paths ending in clear lagoons, and hills dotted with vineyards and wildlife reserves. The famous Benagil sea cave, with its natural skylight, is a must-visit and can be accessed by boat tours from Portimão or Lagos.
Even outside the main cities, the Algarve never feels too crowded, thanks to its year-round warm temperatures. Visitors flock there throughout the year, not just in July and August.
This summer, Americans can fly nonstop to the Algarve with United Airlines from Newark Airport to Faro Airport, the only commercial airport in Southern Portugal. For a luxurious stay, consider a historic villa in the Algarvian hills, available from $250 per night, close to Faro, nature reserves, and the medieval town of Loulé.

Last weekend, I cycled around the Channel Island of Sark and noticed several scarecrows dressed as royals. These scarecrows were part of Scarecrow Week, which ran from June 1-8, and had a regal theme to celebrate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee.

At La Seigneurie Gardens, we found a King Midas scarecrow, surrounded by shells and holding a trident with seaweed. Near the house, I saw a scarecrow that might represent Dame Sibyl Hathaway, enjoying a cup of tea. Dame Sibyl was the Dame of Sark during the German occupation in World War II and is the grandmother of the current seigneur, Michael Beaumont.

At the Methodist church, the scarecrow fittingly depicted the King of Kings, while the Visitor’s Centre featured a King Henry VIII scarecrow. Along the road, a Grenadier Guard scarecrow stood at attention at a farm lane entrance.

Each year, the scarecrow competition has a different theme, and quiz sheets are available at the Visitor’s Centre. The proceeds from these sheets go to Sark’s medical charity, the Professor Saint Medical Trust.

We traveled to Sark from Guernsey with the Sark Shipping Company, which offers four sailings a day. The ferry ride takes about 45 minutes. Since there are no cars on Sark, you can explore the island by walking, cycling, or hiring a horse-drawn carriage. We rented our bikes from Avenue Cycles, located at the end of the Avenue in the main village area.

Sark offers a variety of accommodations, including hotels, cottages, guest houses, and campsites. Although we didn’t stay overnight, we enjoyed a delicious locally caught lobster lunch at La Sablonnerie Hotel on Little Sark. The hotel also has a lovely tea garden and cottages available for rent.

During our Rhine river cruise, we stopped at the charming town of Rüdesheim and decided to try the famous Rüdesheimer coffee, which includes brandy and cream. This was an experience we couldn’t pass up!

We had already enjoyed the fairground organs, music boxes, and other mechanical instruments at the Rüdesheim Music Museum. Afterward, we strolled along the cobbled streets of Drosselgasse, lined with wine shops and taverns.

At Rüdesheimer Schloss, we sat in their bright conservatory and ordered the renowned Rüdesheimer coffee. The preparation of this special coffee was quite a spectacle. It was delicious and warming, putting us in a great mood as we walked back to our river cruise ship, the Amadeus Princess.

If you can’t visit Rüdesheim, you can try making this coffee at home using good German Asbach Brandy, as no French substitute will taste the same.

The Asbach company, founded in Rüdesheim in the 1890s, is a family-run distillery known for producing a German brandy that rivals the best French Cognac. In the 1920s, when it was frowned upon for women to drink in public, they cleverly created brandy chocolates so that ladies could enjoy a secret drink. The Rüdesheimer coffee, created in the 1950s, is still served in the town’s cafes and inns. This delightful drink combines sweet coffee with a generous amount of Asbach brandy, topped with sweetened whipped vanilla cream and grated chocolate. There’s also a summer version where Asbach is poured over vanilla ice cream, iced coffee is added, and it’s topped with whipped cream, served with a straw and spoon.

We enjoyed our Rüdesheimer coffee as part of our tour of Rüdesheim on the Rhine river cruise, but you can visit this lovely town anytime. For more information, you can visit the Asbach website or the Rüdesheim tourist information website.

Every year, my friend Julia and I have a tradition of spending a few days hiking. Last September, we challenged ourselves in the Rosengarten range, part of the Dolomites in South Tyrol. I’ve already shared our experiences from Day 1, where we tackled gentler slopes, and Day 2, where we navigated a high pass through a rocky, lunar-like landscape. Now, let me tell you about Days 3 and 4, where we journeyed to the final mountain refuge across a grassy plateau and made a steep descent back to the valley, ending our adventure at the lovely Hotel Cyprianerhof.

After breakfast at Rifugio Bergamo, also known as Grasleitenhütte, we were ready to leave just as the sun began to light up the terrace. We had enjoyed our stay at this wood-paneled mountain lodge, originally built for mountaineers and filled with nostalgic books and old photographs. We took some departure photos with the owner, Hans, a robust, bearded mountain man who showed us pictures of a festival he hosts at the hut, where everyone dresses in period costumes.

As we descended the hill, we looked back at the rifugio, still in the shade and perched between two rock faces. It was incredible to think about how it was built in such a remote spot. The only sounds were the rushing mountain river behind the rifugio and the white streaks of airplane jets crisscrossing the sky above.

The sun warmed us as we walked along a balcony path with views of the valleys and pine forests below. We crossed another mountain river by hopping over boulders and continued upwards on the other side of the gully. The path became steeper, winding through a rocky landscape. We scrambled and climbed with the help of metal cables and ropes in the most exposed places. I was quite scared at this point, especially after a fall in Austria the previous year. I slowed down, breathed deeply, and took it one step at a time until we reached the top.

At the top, the path was easier, winding through a flower-filled meadow. We decided to detour to Rifugio Alpe di Tires, a beautiful modern refuge with a bright red roof, situated on a grassy plateau between two valleys. The terrace and café were full of walkers and climbers, and the stylish interior felt like a hip city hangout. As grey clouds gathered, our planned 10-minute stop turned into an hour due to a rain shower. We sipped raspberry lemonade while waiting for the rain to pass.

Once the blue skies reappeared, we set off on a path that skirted the mountain. Rifugio Alpe di Tires became a tiny toy house in the distance, easy to spot because of its red roof. As the path climbed higher, I worried about another vertical rock climb but was reassured when we passed walkers with their dogs. We reached a grassy plateau where blue flowers like larkspur were blooming. A fence with a gate indicated that cows were grazing nearby.

Beside the path was a large cairn of rocks, and from there, we could see Rifugio Bolzano, where we would spend the night. Although it seemed close, it took nearly two hours to reach it. After our climb, we took a 20-minute break for a snack and a drink. I took some photos while Julia lay on the grass, enjoying the views.

As we left our rest spot, the sky darkened, and rain started, turning the gravel path into sticky mud. We trudged along the path across the plateau, marked by white cairns, and arrived drenched at Rifugio Bolzano nearly two hours later. It was a relief to take off our muddy boots and wet waterproofs and enter the cosy, wood-paneled dining area. The place was full of families, with children playing games and relaxing before dinner. Rifugio Bolzano, built over 100 years ago, has 47 beds and a traditional atmosphere. We settled into our private room with wooden beds and a view of the mountain.

We were surprised to find no showers at the refuge, only communal washrooms. Despite this, the atmosphere was friendly, and we enjoyed a hearty dinner of mountain fare, including kaiserschmarrn pancakes for dessert.

By morning, the rain had passed, and the air was clear, revealing sunny views of the jagged Dolomites. From Rifugio Bolzano, we walked gently downhill across green pastures dotted with white standing stones, feeling like Hansel and Gretel following a trail. At the end of the plateau, we could see down into the valley, although it was hard to identify the villages below. Somewhere behind the ridges lay the luxurious Hotel Cyprianerhof, which we were eager to reach that evening.

The path became a narrow ribbon, zig-zagging steeply downwards towards the valley. Despite going downhill, the descent was challenging, with steep steps and slippery gravel. After a couple of hours, we reached a cross with a picnic table, where we took a break and ate some snacks. The worst of the descent was over, but we still had three hours to walk before reaching the hotel.

We walked along the slope through the forest, with the smell of cow dung and pine needles in the air. The forest was cool and damp, with moss around the tree roots. Along the trail, we saw wooden sculptures carved from fallen trees, including a giant mushroom and an eagle’s head. The path crossed streams channeled into wooden troughs where we could fill our water bottles. Through gaps in the trees, we could see the valley below and hear church bells and a brass band practicing.

The path eventually widened, leading us down to St Cyprian in the green valley, with the jagged peaks of the Dolomites rising in the distance. We took a ‘Before’ and ‘After’ photo upon arriving at Cyprianerhof, capturing our tired but thrilled expressions. After four days and three nights in the mountains, staying in simple accommodations with limited shower facilities, it was a treat to enter our room at Cyprianerhof. The luxurious natural fabrics, cosy faux fur throw, and huge bathroom were just as lovely as we remembered.

Soon, we transformed from wild mountain women into chic and sleek creatures, with freshly washed hair and clean clothes. We enjoyed a well-deserved aperitif on the lawn outside, toasting our success and endurance. We had earned the delicious meal and elegant surroundings that awaited us at Cyprianerhof.

Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail in Peru are on many travelers’ bucket lists, but Jonathan from Go Andes found some alternative trails that are equally stunning and less crowded.

Peru has always been a dream destination for me. My fascination began as a young boy, captivated by a TV documentary about Machu Picchu. At 13, I didn’t even know where it was, just that it was a mystical ruin in a far-off place.

Fast forward 15 years, and I finally had the chance to visit Peru. I eagerly included Machu Picchu in my plans, trekking the famous Inca Trail. The Inca Trail was everything I hoped for: amazing, life-changing, and tough. Starting at Ollantaytambo, it’s a four-day trek through rolling hills, ending at Machu Picchu at sunrise on the fourth day. Along the way, you visit several impressive Inca ruins that can only be seen by doing the trek, making it a worthwhile experience.

However, Machu Picchu is a world-famous UNESCO Heritage Site and South America’s most visited tourist destination, so it’s very busy. The Inca Trail is also one of the most famous treks globally, with 500 people starting the trek daily, except in February when it’s closed for repairs. This means up to 2000 people can be on the trail at any given time. While the experience was incredible, I wished for more solitude to truly immerse myself in the Peruvian landscape. This led me to explore other trekking options around Cusco and Ollantaytambo.

A few years later, I returned to Peru to try the Lares Trek and the Salcantay Trek. Both start in Cusco, where you can find good hotels and rest before the trek. The Lares Trek was exactly what I missed on the Inca Trail: a small group of about eight people, including the guide and porter, and hardly any other trekkers. The route took us through valleys and up to mountain peaks. The first night was memorable, camping near a traditional village where we met the local Andean community and learned about their way of life. The high-altitude campsites made sleeping tough, but the views were worth it.

The Salcantay Trek is longer, with four days of trekking compared to Lares’ three, but I found it easier and more enjoyable. Except for the first night at 3800m, the campsites were at lower altitudes, making it easier to sleep. The trek offers stunning views of the Vilcabamba mountain range, including the famous Mount Salcantay. Although we didn’t visit a village, we passed many farming communities, offering a glimpse into traditional life. The highlight was visiting the Inca ruin of Llaqtapata on day four.

While the official Inca Trail is a must for some, there are great alternatives if you want to experience trekking in Peru without the crowds. These alternative treks offer similar or even better scenery and a deeper understanding of the local way of life.

Next on my list is the trek to Choquequirao, an Inca ruin some say rivals Machu Picchu. I can’t wait!

Thanks to Jonathan from Go Andes for this guest article. Jonathan has traveled extensively and lived in Peru in 2008 and 2009. He now enjoys reminiscing about his travels with a bowl of ceviche and a bottle of Peruvian beer.