Author: simon611

Schloss Friedenstein, perched above the town of Gotha in Thuringia, is a castle designed to impress. This region, known as the Cultural Heart of Germany, is filled with castles and palaces. I visited during the bicentenary of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s birth, with special exhibitions highlighting their connections to the English Royal family.

The palace, completed in 1683 by Duke Ernest the Pious, replaced the fortress Grimmenstein. Named Friedenstein, meaning “Rock of Peace,” it symbolized a new era of peace. Unlike previous war-focused castles, this residence was designed for peacetime, featuring interiors in the fashionable Baroque style.

Thuringia and Saxony are rich with castles, earning the nickname Cultural Heart of Germany. Historically, these regions were divided into self-governing states, each needing a palace like Friedenstein to display their power. Protestant German states, like those in Thuringia, often married into the English royal family due to religious compatibility. Duke Ernest the Pious and his wife Elizabeth Sophie, aiming to strengthen family ties, became known as “The Grandparents of Europe.”

Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s marriage is one of the most notable connections. Albert, spending much of his early life at Schloss Friedenstein, was part of a web of family ties linking Saxe-Coburg and Gotha with the English Royal family. Other notable marriages include Princess Augusta of Saxe-Gotha to Frederick, the English Prince of Wales, and Prince Leopold’s marriage to Princess Charlotte of Wales.

The state apartments of Schloss Friedenstein were designed to impress, with ornate decorations, chandeliers, and portraits of the Dukes’ relatives. The ballroom, a prime example of Baroque style, was used for grand receptions and parties. If you visit in August, you can experience the Baroque Fest, with 18th-century costumes, local crafts, and musical events.

The Ekhof Theatre, completed in 1687, still uses original 17th-century scenery and stage machinery. It hosts the Ekhof Festival in July and August, featuring Baroque music and plays. The theatre also has a small exhibition space with costumes and other objects of interest.

One of the highlights of my visit was the connection between Friedenstein Palace and Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, evident in the many portraits and keepsakes. Prince Albert’s parents, Duke Ernest I of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld and Luise of Saxe-Gotha-Altenburg, had an advantageous marriage that combined their estates and titles. Despite the scandal and unhappiness in their marriage, their children, Ernest and Albert, carried on the legacy.

During his marriage to Queen Victoria, Prince Albert often longed for his homeland. Queen Victoria, understanding this, commissioned paintings of Friedenstein’s princely apartments. Many family portraits and keepsakes are still displayed at the palace.

The Ducal Museum, built by Prince Albert and his brother Ernest, displays their collections and treasures. The museum includes artworks, exotic objects, and a collection of fans, with special exhibitions like “Gotha and the English Throne.”

The palace gardens, influenced by English landscape style, feature lakes, specimen trees, and a Roman Temple. These gardens reflect the visits of Ernest II to English royal parks.

Schloss Friedenstein offers a glimpse into the rich history and connections between German and English royalty, making it a fascinating destination for history enthusiasts.

When we arrived at the Alhambra in Granada late in the morning, we were disappointed to find out that all the palace tickets were sold out. It turns out you need to book online well in advance or arrive early to get one of the limited tickets available on the day.

Even if you can’t get a palace ticket, it’s still worth visiting the gardens and grounds. We explored the Generalife courtyard and walked along the battlements, enjoying the stunning views over the city. Standing at the top of the tower, with the plains stretching out before us and the palace behind, you can really feel the power of the Alhambra’s rulers. It’s no wonder they called it the Torre del Homenaje, or the Tower of Homage.

We almost skipped Granada because the day before, we had visited El Chorro in the pouring rain and didn’t want another day of wet sightseeing. Fortunately, the weather cleared up as we left Malaga, and although there were a few light showers near the Sierra Nevada, it didn’t slow us down. Later, the sky brightened, and we enjoyed sitting in the courtyard under the battlements, sipping drinks and eating ice cream.

Our first stop was the Generalife, a Moorish villa with beautiful gardens overlooking the main Nasrid Palaces. We walked through the sculpted hedges, past the summer concert stage, and up the water stairway, where water cascades down channels on either side of the steps. The sound of running water was everywhere, from jets and fountains to pools and channels, providing a cool and relaxing atmosphere.

The Alhambra complex was started in the 13th century by the Moorish rulers of Granada, beginning with Muhammad I and later expanded by Muhammad V, who built the Palace of the Lions. In 1492, the palace was surrendered to the Catholic monarchs, King Ferdinand II and Queen Isabella I. In the 16th century, King Charles V added his palace alongside the older Moorish ones.

Although we missed the palace’s beautiful interiors and ornate stonework, we got a taste of it in the Generalife. Early summer would be the perfect time to visit, with the heat of the sun tempered by shady walkways and the soothing sound of running water.

By mid-afternoon, we had explored every part of the garden and decided to head down into Granada for something to eat. The guides advised against driving into the city, so we took a small bus down the hill and wandered through the alleyways, eventually choosing the bustling Tabernas Salinas tapas bar. We stood at the bar, enjoying free tapas with our drinks while waiting for a table. Once seated, we ordered delicious dishes like stuffed red peppers with salt cod, grilled octopus, and stuffed aubergines, all accompanied by local red wine.

After our meal, we didn’t have much time to explore the city further, so we took the minibus back up the hill to our parked car. I had visited the Alhambra with my family over ten years ago, and I have fond memories of that trip. Next time, I plan to visit in early summer and stay at the luxurious Parador hotel in the Alhambra grounds, enjoying the warm evening air and the music of the fountains.

Booking tickets in advance for the Alhambra is highly recommended, especially during high season. If you can’t get a palace ticket, make sure to visit the gardens and the Generalife. For more information, you can plan your visit on the official Granada tourism website. If you’re looking for a great place to eat, I recommend Tabernas Salinas for its lively atmosphere and delicious tapas. And if you want to stay in luxury, consider booking the Parador de Granada Hotel, set in a former convent within the Alhambra grounds.

I had planned a summer break with my friend, but when they couldn’t make it, we rescheduled for October. Initially, I envisioned a relaxing stay at a country house hotel in Cornwall in August, enjoying wine on the terrace, walking cliff paths, and exploring stately homes and gardens. In October, we did all those things, except sitting on the terrace—it was too chilly for that!

Our adventure began with the sound of car wheels crunching on the gravel driveway of the Horn of Plenty, a charming hotel nestled in a narrow Devon lane with a stunning view over a wooded valley. We learned that the house was originally built for the manager of a local copper and tin mine, strategically placed so he could oversee his mine across the valley. Unfortunately, the bare spot on the forested slope was a result of mineral washing that had polluted the ground.

Arriving too early to check in, we decided to take advantage of the sunny weather for a country walk. We could have explored Dartmoor or walked from Tor to Tor, but I preferred a bit of sea air. We drove down to Looe, crossed the river bridge, and followed a narrow road that opened up to a long seaside promenade where we parked. My parents had recommended a cliff path walk to Polperro, with a tea shop stop halfway. I love cliff walks and cream teas even more.

The weather was perfect as we walked for an hour in brilliant sunshine, passing a small island and skirting the headland until we reached Talland Bay. There, the Talland Bay Beach Café awaited us, popular from spring to autumn for its sheltered beach and rock-pools. We could have continued to Polperro, but after enjoying tea and a teacake with clotted cream and jam in the autumn sunshine, we decided to head back to the car.

Returning to the Horn of Plenty, we settled into our lovely room and then drove to Tavistock for dinner at Brown’s Hotel restaurant. Although our hotel was known for its gastronomic offerings, we opted for a more modestly priced meal. Brown’s restaurant was delightful, with beautifully presented food, albeit in small portions, but we enjoyed complimentary bread, olives, and water from their own well.

The next morning, we savored a cooked breakfast at the Horn of Plenty, enjoying the fantastic valley view from the glazed extension. We then visited Antony, a National Trust property about half an hour away, overlooking the estuary towards Plymouth. The house and gardens were used as the setting for Tim Burton’s “Alice in Wonderland,” featuring huge yew hedges and topiary shapes.

We received a timed ticket to tour the house, still lived in by the Carew Pole family who built it in 1724. The National Trust owns the house, but the family retains ownership of the contents. It was fascinating to see family photographs, coffee table books, and magnificent furniture and portraits. Photography was allowed, which is rare for National Trust properties. In the library, we saw a portrait of Sir Alexander Carew next to the leather jerkin he wore, learning about his ill-fated role in the English Civil War.

Upstairs, we peeked into bedrooms with antique furniture and portraits, some still in daily use. Living in such a historic home must be a mixed blessing for the Carew Pole family. After exploring the house, we walked around the kitchen garden walls and noticed a toffee-like smell from a Cercidiphyllum japonicum tree. We ended our visit with tea and a shared scone at the tea shop, enjoying the last of the afternoon sunshine.

That evening, we sought out a country pub on Dartmoor for dinner. Our first choice, the Dartmoor Inn at Lydford, was closed, but we eventually found the Elephant’s Nest, where we enjoyed a great meal in quirky surroundings. After another night at the Horn of Plenty, we headed back to Bristol, feeling refreshed from our October weekend break.

The Horn of Plenty is a small luxury hotel with a gastronomic reputation. We stayed in a Deluxe Double room in the main house for £175 per night. The hotel also offers ground floor rooms in the Garden block. The dinner menu is fixed price, with a cheaper ‘Pot luck’ menu on Mondays and an a la carte menu in November. We found the pricing inflexible, so we chose to dine elsewhere, but it would be ideal for a special celebration. Note their 14-day cancellation policy to avoid charges.

Talland Bay Beach Café is located by the beach and coastal path, with private parking for patrons and a shop selling beach essentials. The Dartmoor Inn at Lydford looked nice but was closed when we wanted to eat there. The Elephant’s Nest at Horndon is a country pub with a large garden, where we enjoyed an interesting meal. Antony, near Torpoint in Cornwall, is a beautiful 18th-century mansion with landscaped grounds and topiary gardens, featured in “Alice in Wonderland.”

Travelers heading to Mexico often choose between Cancun, Puerto Vallarta, and the luxurious Los Cabos for their beach vacations. While all these destinations are amazing, they do have their downsides. Issues like large crowds, hurricane season, and various beach hazards mean that expectations should be managed.
As summer vacations begin, the city of Los Cabos has advised beachgoers to be cautious at popular beaches. This might be surprising since many Cabo beaches have earned the prestigious blue flag, but nature can be unpredictable. As of June 14, 2024, jellyfish have been spotted in Cabo’s waters.
Travelers shouldn’t abandon their plans to visit Los Cabos, but they will notice white flags along the shores. These flags are part of a color-tiered system that informs visitors about specific beach risks. In this case, the white flags indicate the presence of jellyfish, which can cause rashes and discomfort. White flags are posted at Medano Beach, El Corsario Beach, and Palmilla Beach. Additionally, yellow flags, indicating strong currents, are posted at Santa Maria Acapulquito Beach, La Ribera Beach, Hacienda Beach, El Surgidero Beach, and Acapulquito Beach.
The presence of jellyfish at Medano Beach, one of the most popular swimming spots in Cabo, has led lifeguards to post white flags. Medano Beach is known for its beauty, safety, and prime location, making it a top choice for travelers. However, the jellyfish situation means that swimming might not be advisable for now. Fortunately, jellyfish are marine creatures, so staying indoors at a resort is safe. The challenge is resisting the temptation to ignore the warnings and enjoy the stunning views.
There are still plenty of ways to enjoy Los Cabos without swimming. Hiring a tour guide to take you by boat to the famous ‘El Arco’ (the Arch) is a great option. Boating, kayaking, paddleboarding, or simply lounging in the sun are all safe activities despite the jellyfish warnings. It’s important to take the flag warnings seriously to avoid any risks.
If you do get stung by a jellyfish, the old advice of having someone urinate on the wound is outdated and not recommended. Instead, Health.com suggests rubbing cool vinegar or placing hot water on the affected area. Over-the-counter NSAIDs can also help with the pain.

If you visit the Corniche in Beirut during the day, it might seem like just another seaside promenade. But come sunset, especially on weekends, it transforms into something magical. The sky turns shades of orange and purple, bathing everything in a golden glow, and the warm Lebanese air adds to the charm.

It’s not just the pleasant night but the lively atmosphere that stands out. Young couples gaze lovingly at each other, toddlers pedal furiously on their tricycles under the watchful eyes of their smiling, head-scarved mothers, older couples enjoy peaceful strolls, and men try their luck fishing from the rocks while their sons play and splash around.

The entire city seems to be out, simply enjoying the atmosphere and spending time with friends. After our walk, my friend and I took an elevator to the top of the nearby Gefinor hotel. We ended the day sipping cocktails by the rooftop pool, enjoying a fantastic view over the bay. It was a perfect conclusion to a day in Beirut.

Seville is an ideal destination for a city break in Spain, offering a charming old quarter, historic landmarks, delicious food, and vibrant flamenco culture. If you’re planning a trip and wondering where to stay in Seville, here’s a guide to help you choose the best neighborhood and accommodation.

**Bario Santa Cruz:** This was the medieval Jewish quarter, a labyrinth of narrow streets around the Cathedral and Real Alcazar. It’s perfect for sightseeing and is one of the most picturesque areas in Seville, but also the most expensive. While it’s beautiful and convenient, it’s packed with bars, restaurants, and tourists, so make sure to check the location of your accommodation to avoid noise.

**Centro:** This district runs from Seville Cathedral north to Las Setas, covering the Old Town with its narrow, often pedestrianized streets. Centro is great for shopping with numerous high street brands and independent boutiques. It offers a range of accommodation options from budget to luxury, making it a versatile choice for travelers.

**El Arenal:** Located near the Guadalquivir River, El Arenal was historically a wealthy port area. It’s convenient for accessing the riverside promenade and main sights, with hotel prices slightly lower than Santa Cruz.

**Triana:** Just across the river from Santa Cruz, Triana has its own unique character, known for its gypsy culture and ceramic factories. It’s less touristy and offers a local vibe with affordable accommodation, especially near Puente de Isabel II and Puente de San Telmo.

**Macarena:** This boho district north of Centro has a local atmosphere with vintage shops and vibrant nightlife around Alameda de Hercules and Calle Ferria. It’s budget-friendly but a bit further from the main sights.

**Los Remedios:** South of Triana, this area hosts the April Fair and is otherwise a quiet residential neighborhood with modern apartments.

**Nervión/Santa Justa:** This modern commercial district near the main train station is more suited for business travelers, with some hotel options but further from tourist attractions.

**Accommodation Types and Price Guide:**
– **£ = Under £100 a night**
– **££ = £100-250 a night**
– **£££ = Over £250 a night**
– **££££ = Over £500 a night**

**Luxury Hotels:** Expect to pay £300-500 a night. Some top picks include:
– **Alfonso XIII (Santa Cruz):** 5-star, Andalusian grandeur, outdoor pool.
– **Radisson Collection Magdalena Plaza (Centro):** 5-star, contemporary elegance, rooftop pool.

**Boutique Hotels:** These offer charm and character for £250-350 a night. Notable mentions:
– **Hospes las Casas del Rey de Baeza (Santa Cruz):** 4-star, Andalusian charm, rooftop pool.
– **Hotel Boutique Corral del Rey (Centro):** 2-star, cosy elegance, roof terrace.

**Affordable Boutique Hotels:** Stylish options for £130-250 a night. Recommended choices:
– **Hotel Boutique Casa de Colón (Centro):** 2-star, vintage chic, roof terrace.
– **Hotel Boutique La Parada del Marques (El Arenal):** 3-star, stylish budget boutique, rooftop terrace.

**Mid-Range Hotels:** Traditional style with prices ranging from £180-300 per night. Options include:
– **Hotel Las Casas de la Juderia (Santa Cruz):** 4-star, traditional décor, rooftop pool.
– **Hotel Amadeus (Santa Cruz):** 4-star, musical theme, rooftop plunge pool.

**Branded 4-Star Hotels:** Ideal for groups, offering contemporary decor and facilities. Prices are £150-250 per night. Examples are:
– **H10 Casa de la Plata (Centro):** 4-star, contemporary with Andalusian touches, rooftop pool.
– **NH Sevilla Plaza de Armas (El Arenal):** 4-star, sleek and contemporary, rooftop pool.

**Budget Options:** Stylish and affordable choices for £100-150 per night. Suggestions are:
– **Hotel Boutique Elvira Plaza (Santa Cruz):** 3-star, calming neutrals, terrace.
– **Hotel Sacristia de Santa Ana (Macarena):** 3-star, traditional charm.

**Hostels:** Affordable options with private rooms and dorms, costing £80-130 for private en suite rooms. Recommendations include:
– **TOC Hostel Sevilla (Santa Cruz):** Modern and colourful, outdoor terrace.
– **For You Hostel Sevilla (El Arenal):** Contemporary décor, private rooms available.

**Apartments:** Great for longer stays or sharing with friends, offering flexibility for £150-250 for a 2-bedroom apartment. Some options are:
– **Apartmentos RG Suites Jardines de Murillo (Santa Cruz):** Stylish with colourful touches, rooftop terrace with plunge pool.
– **Giralda House (Centro):** Contemporary decor, roof terrace.

Seville enjoys year-round sunshine with mild winters and warm, comfortable weather in spring and autumn. Summer months, especially July and August, can be extremely hot. Spring and autumn are the best times to visit, but be mindful of higher prices during the Santa Semana and April Fair.

The food in Heidelberg was hearty and comforting, perfect for our winter weekend getaway. We enjoyed a delicious dinner of veal and vegetables boiled in broth with dumplings, and crispy Kartoffelpuffer potato fritters with apple sauce from the Christmas market. Seasonal treats like Zimsterne cinnamon star biscuits were a delight, and we savored kaffee und kuchen in the cozy cafes of the Old Town, along with chocolates and candies from shop windows.

Before diving into the sweets, we sampled typical German dishes at Goldener Hecht, a hotel and restaurant in the heart of the Alstadt. I had roast goose with dumplings and red cabbage, a traditional Christmas Eve dish in Germany. Guy enjoyed boiled veal with vegetables in a copper pan of broth, served with apple sauce and crispy fried potatoes. Another favorite of Guy’s was Gulyassuppe, a hearty goulash made with beef, tomato, and paprika, served with crusty bread.

For dining recommendations, Goldener Hecht is located at Steingasse 2 by the Old Bridge. Other notable spots include Hackteufel (Steingasse 7), Schnitzelbank (Bauamtsgasse 7), and Zum Güldenen Schaf (Hauptstrasse 115). Most beerhouses in Heidelberg serve both food and the famous German beer, offering a lively atmosphere. In summer, you can enjoy the biergarten experience, where you’ll be served at the table by a waitress in a traditional dirndl.

We had a beer and supper at Zum Roten Ochsen (Red Ox Inn), a traditional student pub at Hauptstraße 217. Despite its touristy reputation, we found friendly service and good food. The dark wood paneling, cheerful red check tablecloths, and old photos of Heidelberg students added to the charm. Zum Seppl (Hauptstrasse 213) and Vetters (Steingasse 9) are also worth a visit for their convivial pub atmosphere.

The German Christmas markets are a highlight, focusing on eating, drinking, and socializing rather than just shopping. Traditional foods to try include wurst (long German sausage) in bread with ketchup and mustard, and Kartoffelpuffer (potato fritters) with apple or garlic sauce. Other market treats include Schnaufnudel (potato pasta with fried cabbage) and bread rolls filled with slow-roasted pork. The sweet smell of Glühwein and the buzz of conversation create a festive atmosphere. You can keep the Glühwein mug as a souvenir or return it for a deposit refund. For something stronger, try Fuerzangenboule, mulled wine with rum-soaked sugar.

Heidelberg’s Old Town is filled with cozy cafes, perfect for a kaffee und kuchen break. Café Knösel, near the Church of the Holy Spirit, offers a traditional atmosphere and delicious cakes like Black Forest Gateaux. The side room filled with old photos of Heidelberg students adds to the charm. Café Gundel is another favorite, known for its seasonal baked goods and the Heidelberger Kurfürstenkugel, a ball-shaped cake with nougat filling, commemorating Prince Elector Frederik V and Princess Elizabeth Stuart.

For chocolates, visit Knösel (Haspelgasse 16) for the famous Students Kiss truffles, a sweet gift with a romantic backstory. The Heidelberg Bonbon Manufaktur (Steingasse 5) is great for families, offering handmade candies and lollipops. For more sophisticated chocolates, Pralinmanufaktur Vorbach (Hauptstrasse 211) sells fresh handmade truffles.

Heidelberg offers a delightful culinary experience, from hearty German dishes to sweet treats. Enjoy exploring the cobbled streets and discovering your own favorite spots.

I recently spent a few days with friends in Somerset and North Devon, playing tourists and exploring the charming towns of Dunster, Dulverton, and Selworthy. This region of England is characterized by the wild landscapes of Exmoor National Park. However, the areas surrounding the moor are lush and rolling, with steep lanes and picturesque thatched cottages made from local stone or painted in rich cream hues.

Dunster, located on the northern edge of Exmoor near the sea, is a popular filming location for Agatha Christie costume dramas. It features many pretty cottages and the Dunster Castle, managed by the National Trust, perched on a hill. Unfortunately, the castle was closed for cleaning and renovation during our visit and was covered in scaffolding. Undeterred, we explored the gardens, enjoyed the sea views, and peeked into the orangery. We noticed a sign for the crypt that read “Ghosts here,” and saw a group emerging from a special tour of the castle’s attics and crypts. There were also signs for a bat tour, as bats roost in one of the medieval staircases.

We discovered Dunster Water Mill and tea rooms tucked down a lane, where we sat in the garden admiring the ducks in a pen at the other end. It’s a great spot for family ice creams or cream tea, but since it was lunchtime, we opted for cheese and ham baguettes. After browsing a few gift shops, buying fudge, and tasting local ice cream, we went in search of the perfect cream tea.

Next, we visited Dulverton on the southern edge of Exmoor, a delightful place to spend an hour or two. The town has interesting shops selling farm produce, antiquarian books, and stylish gifts and jewelry. We had lunch at a local gastropub called Woods, which has received rave reviews. It combines old-world charm with a modern, bustling atmosphere and delicious food. We both had salads—mine with scallops and prawns, and my friend’s with steak. My dish was a bit light, so I added a bowl of chips.

No visit to Devon is complete without trying a cream tea, and we found ours in Selworthy. This picture-perfect village, part of the Holnicote Estate owned by the National Trust, looks like something out of a calendar. Selworthy is a hamlet of thatched cottages, one of which you can rent, and another houses the Periwinkle Cottage Tea Rooms, which felt like a scene from a Beatrix Potter story. We enjoyed afternoon tea in the garden with warm scones, jam, and clotted cream, all served in rose-covered china with tea from a pot with a flowery tea cozy.

Even I was charmed by this idyllic vision of Englishness, which seems to exist only for tourists. My friend once brought a French exchange student here who devoured his scone before realizing it should be covered with jam and cream first—a bit like an English child figuring out how to eat oysters or garlic snails.

As we headed back to my friend’s house, it started to rain, and we noticed the roads were flooded in places, covered with mud and sticks. While we had been enjoying sunshine at the coast, there had been a downpour on the other side of Exmoor, flooding my friend’s garden from a nearby brook. This lush, green corner of England is known for its dairy herds that produce all that clotted cream.

Head to the southwest tip of India to experience Kerala, known for its lush greenery, golden beaches, tropical palms, and tranquil lagoons, aptly called God’s Own Country. Here’s a suggested itinerary for a 10-day trip to Kerala, with additional tips for those wanting to extend their stay.

Begin your journey in the historic trading port of Old Kochi. From there, travel to the cooler tea plantations of Munnar, explore the backwaters near Alappuzha, and end with a relaxing beach stay at Varkala. Kerala’s slower pace and natural beauty offer a refreshing contrast to the more intense experiences in other parts of India. Known for its prosperity, Kerala has historically thrived from trade and continues to benefit from a well-educated population working overseas, especially in the Gulf States.

For independent travelers, this guide will assist in planning your trip. Those on organized tours will get a sense of what to expect.

Here’s a quick overview of the 10-day itinerary with mid-range accommodation suggestions:

– **Day 1:** Arrive in Kochi by train or plane. Relax or explore the city. Stay for 2 nights at a boutique waterfront hotel.
– **Day 2:** Explore Kochi.
– **Day 3:** Drive to Munnar. Stay for 2 nights in a heritage tea planter’s bungalow.
– **Day 4:** Explore Munnar.
– **Day 5:** Drive to Alappuzha and join a houseboat. Stay for 1 night in a luxury eco-houseboat.
– **Day 6:** Check out of the houseboat and into a lakeside hotel. Stay for 1 night at a luxury lakeside eco-resort.
– **Day 7:** Drive to Varkala. Stay for 3 nights at a stylish guest house.
– **Day 8:** Explore and relax in Varkala.
– **Day 9:** Continue to enjoy Varkala.
– **Day 10:** Drive to Thiruvananthapuram airport for your flight home or to another part of India.

For those with more time, consider a 14-day itinerary by adding days at the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary near Thekkady, the Parambikulam Reserve near Palakkad, or extra days at any of the listed locations.

### Highlights of the Trip:

**Kochi**: A blend of cultures with influences from the Dutch, Portuguese, British, and Jewish communities. Major attractions include the Chinese fishing nets, Santa Cruz Basilica, St. Francis Church, Mattancherry Palace, and the vibrant Jew Town.

**Munnar**: Known for its tea plantations, scenic viewpoints, and cool climate. Activities include visiting tea estates, hiking, and exploring the Eravikulam National Park.

**Alappuzha (Alleppey)**: Famous for its backwaters. Experience a stay on a traditional houseboat and explore smaller channels for bird watching and local life.

**Varkala**: A scenic beach destination with cliffs and vibrant nightlife. Ideal for relaxation, yoga, and surfing.

### Travel Tips:

– **Transportation**: Use a combination of trains, taxis, and auto-rickshaws. Private taxis are recommended for long distances.
– **Accommodation**: Stay in heritage hotels, boutique guest houses, and eco-friendly resorts.
– **Best Time to Visit**: December to February for pleasant weather. Avoid the monsoon season from June to September.

This itinerary ensures a balanced mix of cultural exploration, natural beauty, and relaxation, making your trip to Kerala a memorable experience.

We arrived at Rifugio Bonatti the night before, nearing the end of our 2012 walk on the Tour de Mont Blanc. Situated at over 2000 meters, this refuge felt like a boutique hostel, perched high above the Val Ferret and the village of La Vachey. Despite its remote location with no visible road access, I was impressed by the comfort it offered. Our twin bedroom featured pine beds, embroidered linen at the window, and handwoven woolen curtains with pretty woven bows. The refuge, named after the famous Italian climber Walter Bonatti, had walls adorned with black and white photos of him climbing in the Alps, along with vintage posters of climbing heroes from the 1950s and 60s.

Dinner at the refuge was a communal affair. We sat at long tables with other guests in a charming dining room with traditional wooden beams and a beautiful old blue and white tiled stove. The meal was simple yet delightful, starting with a salad accompanied by local cheeses, followed by a mini-quiche with carrots and tiny new potatoes, and ending with a dessert of blancmange topped with bitter chocolate sauce and shortbread biscuits shaped into the Refuge Bonatti motif.

During dinner, we chatted with a Japanese couple who had just run the TMB Ultra-marathon, each carrying only 3-4 kg rucksacks. This event is for elite endurance runners, and I recalled a previous year in Chamonix where we watched the exhausted runners finish their race as we enjoyed a cold beer at a cafe.

Julia and I also spent dinner planning our route for the following year to complete the TMB. We discussed which paths to take, the refuges to stay in, and speculated on where we might encounter snow even in summer. As the sun set, it bathed Mont Blanc in a glowing orange, prompting many guests to step outside for photos. Once the sun dipped behind the ridge, the air turned cold.

The next morning, we debated between two paths: the main valley path, which seemed easier, and an alternative over the ridge that joined the main route above Courmayeur. We chose the easier main path, eager to reach Courmayeur in time to buy bus tickets for the next day’s journey through the Mont Blanc tunnel to Chamonix.

Our walk that day was along an undulating path with the Mont de la Saxe ridge to our left and stunning views of Mont Blanc to our right. The weather was perfect, making for easy walking and plenty of photo opportunities. By early afternoon, we reached a flat grassy viewpoint above Refugio Georgio Bertone, where we enjoyed a late lunch with a fabulous view over the valley. Our peaceful spot soon filled with groups of Italians who had climbed up from Courmayeur, making it a popular day hike destination.

Feeling our remote mountain experience was ending, we began our descent to Courmayeur. The path was steep and shaded, and I was thankful for my walking poles to support my knees. We eventually reached a residential road and walked into Courmayeur, finding our hotel, Bouton d’Or. Despite our tiredness, we remembered to take our traditional “end of the TMB photo.”

After dropping off our packs, we bought bus tickets for the next day’s journey back to Chamonix. The following morning, we noticed crowds gathering in the town center for the start of another ultra-marathon, the Tor des Geants, around the Aosta valley. We watched the lean, tanned runners preparing and then headed to the bus station for our trip back to Chamonix and home.

Chamonix felt familiar, with its geranium-filled window boxes, views of Mont Blanc, and the statue of climbers Balmat and Saussure pointing to the summit. We had started there in 2011, on the second leg of our Tour de Mont Blanc from La Flegere to Champex Lac. We planned to return in September 2013 to complete the final leg from Courmayeur to Chamonix Les Houches.

The Tour de Mont Blanc can be done in 12 days, but I preferred our leisurely four-year approach. Whether you choose to complete it in one go or spread it out, Mont Blanc is always a sight to behold!