Author: simon611

We woke up to bright sunshine and clear blue skies at Refuge Col de Balme, and the challenges of the previous day, including our tiring walk and the encounter with a herd of sharp-horned mountain cattle, were almost forgotten. Instead of following the route to Trient as suggested by our TMB guidebook, both the Monsieur from the Refuge and other walkers strongly recommended a slightly different path to Col de la Forclaz, which they assured us would be shorter and easier. We skirted around the edge of the mountain, maintaining our altitude, with views of Trient’s rooftops in the valley below.

After a couple of hours, we rounded a bend and saw the Glacier du Trient ahead of us, hanging above the valley. From there, the path descended past another small refuge where the Swiss flag was flying, confirming that we had crossed into Switzerland.

It was tempting to relax in the sun or buy a drink on the terrace, but we decided to wait until we reached the valley, knowing we had a long walk ahead to Champex. We zig-zagged downhill through the forest beneath a cliff where chains were attached to the rock to help us descend safely. We could hear the rushing water from the river at the valley bottom and saw a cafe beside the river, which we assumed was the hotel at Col de la Forclaz.

After walking for three hours, I became suspicious when I couldn’t see the road marked on the map. Upon reaching the river and consulting the map again, I realized we were at Chalet du Glacier, with a sign indicating another 50 minutes to Col de la Forclaz.

My friend Julia was struggling with the altitude, so we collapsed in the shade by the cafe with a cool drink to assess our options. It was nearly 2 pm, and we realized that walking another five hours to Champex was impossible. Our best option was to reach Champex by public transport. After a picnic lunch, we set off towards Col de la Forclaz along a flat path, passing Sunday afternoon walkers heading to the picnic spot we had just left.

At the bar beside the busy main road at Col de la Forclaz, we checked the bus timetable and found that the next bus to the Martigny rail station wouldn’t pass until 6 pm, which was too late for our connections to Champex. We inquired at the hotel but were told a taxi to Martigny would cost 75 Swiss Francs, so we decided to hitch a ride.

Hitchhiking was a new experience for me, but Julia was experienced from her student days. We stood at the edge of the car park, with Julia confidently sticking out her thumb at passing cars while I tried to blend into the background. Within minutes, a Frenchman with his two teenage daughters pulled over. Julia asked if he could give us a lift to Martigny, and though he seemed surprised, he agreed. We chatted amiably with him and his daughters about their visits to the area and his time in Norwich as a student.

After being dropped at Martigny station, we joined the efficient Swiss transport system and, after two changes by train and bus, reached Champex Lac at 7 pm. It was probably not much earlier than if we had walked, but we were much more relaxed. It was a relief to arrive at Chalet Bon Abri, where we saw a tipi in the flower-filled garden and campers playing table tennis. Inside, the chalet felt modern and stylish, with a dining room and bar at the front and a reception around the back where we could take off our rucksacks and boots. We put on the provided plastic clogs and left our boots in the basement. Madame showed us to our dorm room with cheerful red-checked duvets. As dinner was about to be served, we went down for homemade soup and chicken in a wine sauce while we examined the map and planned next year’s leg to continue the Tour de Mont Blanc to Courmayeur.

The next morning, we took a short walk around the lake at Champex and relaxed in a cafe until it was time to take the bus and train back to Chamonix, where we had started three days before. This small resort town was much tamer than the high mountain paths we had been on, with most visitors appearing to be retirees enjoying the mountain air without strenuous exertion.

The lesson we learned was that next year, each day’s walk would need to be shorter, with plenty of time for resting our legs and admiring the mountain scenery. Despite the efficiency of the public transport system, we much preferred being high in the mountains with views of glaciers and toy-town villages in the valley, pretending we were real Tour de Mont Blanc walkers.

I was heading to meet my sister for a few days to explore the charming market town of Petworth and its surrounding countryside. Petworth is a perfect spot for a relaxing country weekend, offering plenty to see, delicious food, and beautiful walks within the South Downs National Park. Here’s a glimpse of how to spend an ideal weekend in Petworth.

Driving through the West Sussex countryside, I was enchanted by the gently rolling landscape. The fields were filled with yellow rapeseed crops, and the pretty villages featured red brick and stone cottages.

Our morning began with a short drive from The Halfway Bridge to the picturesque village of Lodsworth. Although it would have been a lovely walk through the fields, we opted to drive and visit the Langham Brewery. The brewery, located in an 18th-century granary barn, has a small tasting area where friendly brewers offer samples to help you decide what to buy. Langham Brewery is known for its traditional cask-conditioned real ales, which you can find in many local pubs. You can also arrange a two-hour brewery tour with plenty of tasting opportunities.

A bit further up the road, we stopped at the community-run Lodsworth Larder to pick up some items for our picnic lunch. The Larder offers ciabatta bread from the nearby Farreti bakery, local cheeses, and other products from Sussex craft producers. We left our car in the Larder’s car park and explored the village, admiring the stone and red brick cottages, gardens overflowing with wisteria and clematis, and the medieval stone interior of St Peter’s Church.

Next, we headed to Petworth, a market town known for its antique shops, stylish boutiques, and good food. Petworth is a haven for independent shopping, with small streets and pedestrian lanes leading to hidden courtyards and gardens. We parked in the town car park and spent an hour browsing clothes shops and second-hand bookstores, wandering along the cobbled streets and courtyards.

At The Hungry Guest Deli, we were tempted by the delicious, locally sourced food. The deli even has a cheese room where everything is beautifully displayed and kept at the perfect temperature. We could have spent hours there, but it was time to move on to Petworth House.

Petworth House and Park, located on the edge of town, are easy to visit in one day. The mansion, built in 1682, is surrounded by a 700-acre deer park landscaped by Capability Brown. The house boasts an impressive art collection, including works by Van Dyck, Reynolds, Titian, and Turner. After our picnic lunch on the edge of the deer park, we explored the pleasure gardens, which were covered with bluebells and rhododendrons.

Our walk led us to the Ionic Temple, created by Capability Brown, with views over Petworth town. Inside Petworth House, we focused on a few rooms and paintings, including eight Turner paintings and a collection of Shakespearean scenes. The Marble Hall and the Carved Room were particularly impressive, with their grand designs and intricate wood carvings.

We also visited the Servant’s Quarters, which housed the original kitchens and store rooms. The grand kitchen, with its shelves of polished copper pans and jelly molds, was a highlight. The shop and café in the courtyard provided a pleasant end to our visit.

For Sunday morning, we enjoyed a country walk starting from the village of Lurgashall, passing through Lickfold and the Blackdown distillery. We parked by the Noah’s Ark Inn in Lurgashall, a quintessentially English village with a pub overlooking the village green. The walk took us through fields and woodlands, past a millpond and a farm, and ended with a visit to the Blackdown Distillery, where we sampled various spirits and liqueurs.

After our walk, we returned to the Noah’s Ark Inn for lunch. I had a smoked salmon sandwich, while my sister chose a lamb kofta. The inn is a great spot for lunch or dinner, especially on summer weekends when it’s likely to be busy.

For accommodations, I highly recommend The Halfway Bridge, just outside Petworth. The old coaching inn offers cosy and comfortable rooms in a converted barn, delicious meals, and a welcoming bar area. Other options include The Angel Inn in Petworth, The Old Railway Station, The Spread Eagle Inn in Midhurst, and the Goodwood Hotel near Chichester. Each offers unique charm and excellent amenities for a memorable stay in West Sussex.

The City of London, often referred to as The Square Mile, is the financial and historic core of the capital, originally established by the Romans as Londinium. This compact business district blends medieval alleyways with modern architecture, creating a unique atmosphere. The area exudes affluence and formality, with many professionals dressed in suits and ties. Despite its upscale vibe, there are plenty of free activities to enjoy, even if you’re not on a city salary.

The Museum of London is a fantastic free museum that chronicles the city’s history from prehistoric times to the present day. It covers significant events such as the Roman and Medieval periods, the Great Fire of London in 1666, and the Blitz during World War II. The museum’s galleries provide a comprehensive look at how London has evolved over the centuries.

The City of London was built on the old Roman city of Londinium, and remnants of Roman London can still be seen today. The Romans constructed a 4 km wall around their city, parts of which are still visible. Notable sections of the wall can be found opposite the Tower of London, on Noble Street, and near the Museum of London. The Guildhall Art Gallery also houses the remains of a Roman Amphitheatre in its basement.

The Bank of England Museum, located in the heart of the City of London, offers a fascinating glimpse into the history of England’s central bank. Established in 1694, the museum showcases the bank’s history, including how banknotes have been printed to prevent forgery. Visitors can even try to lift a real gold bar.

The Guildhall Art Gallery features the City of London Corporation’s art collection and the remains of London’s Roman Amphitheatre. The gallery’s upper floor focuses on Victorian and Pre-Raphaelite masterpieces, while the basement houses exhibitions like the Sublime Symmetry, showcasing the ceramics of William de Morgan.

The Sky Garden, located at 20 Fenchurch Street, is London’s highest public garden. It offers free access to three terraces filled with trees and tropical flowers, all enclosed in a glass dome. Visitors can enjoy 360-degree views of the city, but it’s essential to book a ticket in advance due to high demand.

The Barbican is an arts center and residential complex known for its Brutalist architecture. It hosts world-class music, theatre, dance, and art exhibitions. The Barbican conservatory, a hidden tropical oasis, is home to 2000 species of tropical plants and is open on select Sundays.

For a historical stay, consider The Montcalm at Brewery London City Hotel, located on the former site of a Whitbread brewery. This 5-star hotel is close to major City of London sites and offers contemporary rooms with a nod to its eighteenth-century heritage.

The City of London also boasts numerous green spaces, often found in churchyards. St Dunstan in the East and Postman’s Park are two popular city gardens. St Dunstan in the East, dating back to the 12th century, was transformed into a public park after being damaged in the Great Fire of London and the Blitz. Postman’s Park, named for its popularity with nearby office workers, features grassy lawns, colorful borders, and a memorial to everyday acts of heroism.

Leadenhall Market, dating back to the 14th century, offers a glimpse of Victorian London with its wrought iron and glass roof. It’s now home to boutique retailers and restaurants, and it was featured in the film Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone.

The London Mithraeum, located within Bloomberg’s new European Headquarters, showcases the reconstructed remains of the Temple of Mithras, a Roman cult site. The site also displays Roman artifacts uncovered during the building’s construction.

The City of London hosts regular free classical concerts in its medieval churches, such as St Olave Hart Street and St Bride’s. St Paul’s Cathedral offers free Sunday afternoon organ recitals, providing a chance to see this architectural masterpiece.

For a panoramic view of London, visit the Monument to the Fire of London, designed by Sir Christopher Wren. Climb its 311 steps for a view of the city and learn about the Great Fire of London, which shaped the city’s development.

There are plenty of free activities to enjoy in the City of London, but if your budget allows, consider visiting paid attractions like the Tower of London, Tower Bridge, and St Paul’s Cathedral for a more comprehensive London experience.

If you visit Thessaloniki, you’ll get to taste some of the best food Greece has to offer. A walk through Kapani market will reveal a variety of produce from both land and sea, showcasing a blend of Greek, Ottoman, and Jewish culinary influences. As a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, Thessaloniki offers a rich food culture with numerous restaurants, dishes, and pastries to try.

Thessaloniki, once at the heart of the Byzantine Empire, has always been cosmopolitan due to its trading links to North Africa and its diverse population. Despite the upheavals caused by a great fire in 1917, the forced population exchange of 1923, earthquakes, and wars, the multicultural influences on its cuisine have persisted.

Today, Thessaloniki exudes prosperity and has a large student population. Restaurants often set tables on pavements and squares, perfect for enjoying coffee or lunch in the sunshine. Known as Greece’s “food city,” it boasts ambitious chefs and a creative food culture.

The city offers a wide range of dining experiences, from stylish brunch spots and trendy late-night bars to modern Greek cooking, traditional tavernas, and colorful markets. For more on Thessaloniki’s history and culture, check out my article on the best things to do in Thessaloniki.

Thessaloniki, Greece’s second-largest city, has hundreds of restaurants, bars, and cafes, providing endless choices. To help you find the best places to eat, here are some recommended neighborhoods:

– **Ladadika**: Behind the old port, this quaint area is popular for dining out, with busy streets from lunchtime to late evening.
– **Seafront and Aristotelous Square**: The Leof. Nikis road along the seafront offers sea views, and the area around Aristotelous Square is prime for dining.
– **Ano Poli / Tsinari**: This residential area has charming restaurants around Tsinari, including the well-known Ouzeri Tsinari.
– **Vatikioti Market and Athenos Square**: Quiet during the day, these areas come alive at night with pedestrianized lanes filled with restaurant tables.
– **Valaoritou**: Known for nightlife, this area is full of stylish bars and clubs at night, with trendy rooftop bars like Stin Taratsa and Urania.

Thessaloniki’s meze culture is strong, with excellent Mezedopoleía (meze restaurants) in every neighborhood. Variations include Ouzeri (serving Ouzo) and Tsipouro restaurants (serving Tsipouro). Traditional tavernas and koutoukia (small family-run restaurants) offer authentic Greek dishes and sometimes live folk music.

Here are some traditional restaurants to try:

– **Ouzeri Tsinari (Ano Poli)**: A charming, inexpensive neighborhood restaurant with traditional sharing dishes.
– **Rediviva Cucina Povera (Ano Poli)**: Known for excellent sharing plates and a variety of Tsipouro.
– **Wall by Wall / Toixo Toixo (Ano Poli)**: A vintage-style cafe/restaurant offering Mediterranean and Greek meze dishes.
– **Taverna O Thodoros (Paparrigopoulou 15)**: A traditional taverna with good food, reasonable prices, and live folk music.
– **Full Tou Meze (Ladadika)**: Consistently recommended for its excellent traditional Greek food.
– **Mezen Salonika (Ladadika)**: Part of a small chain serving Meze and Tsipouro in the style of Volos.
– **To Elliniko (near White Tower)**: A well-established Greek restaurant visited by UK chef Rick Stein.

For modern Greek cuisine, try:

– **Charoupi / Xaroupi (Doxis 4 Ladadika)**: Specializes in Cretan cuisine with sophisticated presentation and attentive service.
– **Extravaganza (Episcopou Amvrosiou 8)**: Known for creative and beautifully presented Mediterranean and Greek cuisine.

Vegetarians will find tasty vegetable dishes on standard menus, and markets and delicatessens offer fresh seasonal produce. For vegan or vegetarian cuisine, try rOOTs vegetarian and vegan or Tarantoula.

Seafood lovers should visit Kalamaria, a suburb with several seafood restaurants near the beach and marina. In Thessaloniki, check out:

– **Kritamos Meze Bar (Tirolois 38 in Toumba)**: Specializes in seafood meze plates with Tsipouro.
– **Marea sea spirit (Margariti Lori 13 near the White Tower)**: An upscale oyster bar and seafood restaurant.
– **Bajayazi (Vasileos Herakliou 35 near Modiano market)**: A taverna-style restaurant specializing in seafood.
– **Ouzerie Lola (Agapinou 10 near the Rotunda)**: A traditional ouzeri serving small seafood plates.

Thessaloniki also has a strong coffee culture, with traditional coffee shops and trendy coffee bars. The popular Greek summertime drink, Frappé, was invented here. For a chilled but milky coffee, try a Freddo Cappuccino.

Brunch culture is thriving, with dishes based on local Greek flavors. Look for places like Ergon Foods, Donkey Garden, Estrella, and Apallou for substantial brunch dishes.

Thessaloniki is also known for its elegant bakeries and cake shops. Special cakes include Trigona, Bougatsa, and Kazan Dipi. For the best Trigona, visit Elenidis Patisserie. For Bougatsa, try Serraikon, Bougatsa Giannis, or Bougatsa Bantis. Kazan Dipi can be found at Konstantinidis Patisserie.

For a deeper understanding of Thessaloniki’s food culture, consider taking a culinary walking tour. These tours offer market visits, tastings, and traditional lunches.

Thessaloniki’s markets, such as Kapani, Vatikioti, and Modiano, are great places to experience the variety of food. Kapani Market is the main market, offering fresh produce, fish, meat, and deli counters. Modiano Market has been renovated and filled with modern food businesses.

Local specialties include peaches from Naousa, kiwi fruit from Pierias, cherries from Rodochori, Florina peppers, giant beans from Kato Nerokopi, and Halkidiki olives and olive oil. Look out for local cheeses like Anevato, Katiki Domokou, Feta, Manouri, Kyano, Kasseri, and Batzos.

Thessaloniki’s cuisine is influenced by Ottoman traditions and the influx of Greek refugees from Asia Minor. Look for dishes like Politiki salad, Piperies Florinis, Bougiourdi, and Soutzoukakia Smyrneika.

Greek wines are excellent, and several vineyards near Thessaloniki can be visited, such as Ktima Gerovassiliou, Domaine Florian, and Voulgari winery.

If visiting in May, check out the Street Food Festival by Soul Food Thessaloniki. They also run a beer festival in early September.

For more on things to do, where to stay, and how to plan your trip, read my article on the best things to do in Thessaloniki.

Rome, Florence, and Venice are fantastic, but they can get overwhelmingly crowded with tourists during the summer. It often feels like these popular Italian destinations are tailored just for visitors, with countless souvenir shops and overpriced restaurants.
Looking to dodge the crowds in Italy this summer? Consider visiting these two underrated, authentic Italian cities!
Bologna and Parma, located in the Emilia-Romagna region, were recently highlighted by National Geographic as top European destinations for 2024. These medium-sized cities share many similarities but also have their own unique charm.
**Why Visit Bologna and Parma?**
**Easy Train Connections**
Traveling to Bologna and Parma from other Italian cities is a breeze, making it easy to include them in a broader Italian itinerary. Fast train connections link Bologna and Parma to Venice, Milan, and Florence. Bologna is just a 40-minute train ride from Florence and 1.5 hours from Venice, while Parma is only 45 minutes from Milan by train. The two cities are also just 50 minutes apart by train, making them both convenient to visit. Although Bologna is the larger of the two, both cities are worth exploring.
**Foodie Paradise**
The real draw of Bologna and Parma is the food! While Italy is known for its culinary delights, Bologna and Parma stand out as two of the best foodie cities in the country. Bologna is a meat lover’s dream, famous for its mortadella sausages (known as baloney in the U.S.) and rich Bolognese sauce. Parma, on the other hand, is renowned for its Parma hams and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese (parmesan). A food tour in either city will provide a fantastic overview of their cuisines and highlight the best spots to eat.
**University Cities**
Both Bologna and Parma are historic university cities, adding to their vibrant atmospheres. Bologna, a stunning medieval city, is home to the oldest university in Europe, the University of Bologna, which has been operating since 1088. This gives the city a lively, youthful vibe. Similarly, Parma is centered around the University of Parma. Both cities are rich in history, featuring beautiful churches, fascinating museums, and incredible medieval architecture.
**Fewer Tourists**
While not completely off the beaten path, Bologna and Parma attract far fewer tourists than Italy’s more famous cities. Unlike Venice, which can sometimes feel like a theme park, or Florence and Rome, where crowds and long lines can be frustrating, Bologna and Parma offer a more relaxed experience. You rarely need to book museum tickets in advance, and long lines are uncommon. These cities feel authentic and lived-in, making them excellent alternatives if you want to avoid the summer crowds in Italy.

Nothing says “summer” quite like a trip to a beautiful Caribbean island. However, if you’re tired of visiting the same places or want to avoid the usual tourist crowds, there’s a new hotspot with untouched beaches that’s becoming very popular. Paradise Island in the Bahamas saw nearly 1.9 million visitors in the first four months of 2024, a 13.2% increase from last year, indicating an even more successful summer ahead.
So, what makes this place stand out among other Caribbean destinations? Let’s dive in.
### Some of the Caribbean’s Most Incredible Beaches
While all Caribbean beaches are stunning, some are truly exceptional. Paradise Island boasts pristine white sand and crystal-clear waters that will take your breath away. Although the entire island feels like one big beach, there are a few spots that are particularly worth visiting. My top picks are Cabbage Beach, Paradise Beach, and Colonial Beach. Each offers unique experiences but shares the same incredible views and perfect swimming conditions.
### Easier Than Ever to Get There
Paradise Island lives up to its name, and getting there has never been easier. Thanks to new routes from various airlines, including budget-friendly options like Southwest and JetBlue, reaching this Bahamian gem is more accessible than ever. These airlines have not only increased flight options but also helped lower airfare prices, with some tickets available for just over $200.
### Accommodation Options for Every Budget
While there aren’t many cheap hotels on Paradise Island, there are still budget-friendly options if you know where to look. For instance, Comfort Suites offers rooms starting at $370 per night. These resorts provide more than just a place to stay; they offer a complete experience. Iconic spots like Atlantis Paradise offer exceptional service and atmosphere. If these options are out of your budget, consider staying in Nassau, where you can find accommodations for $80-$120 per night and make the short drive to Paradise Island’s beaches.
### A Surprisingly Lively Hub
Despite its small size of just 1.1 square miles, Paradise Island is bustling with activities. This summer, the island’s event calendar is packed with culinary festivals, basketball games, wine tastings, gallery openings, and monastery tours. If you prefer nature, you can go diving in the Blue Hole, kayaking, take a boat tour or fishing charter, or enjoy a scenic hike. The island offers something for everyone.
In summary, Paradise Island in the Bahamas is a must-visit destination this summer, offering stunning beaches, easy access, a range of accommodations, and a lively atmosphere with plenty to explore.

Two summers ago, I spent five days alone on Šipan Island, near Dubrovnik in Croatia. Friends had told me it was one of the most unspoiled spots along the Adriatic coast, so I decided to check it out.

During July and August, the peak summer season, sailboats and yachts visit, and tourists come for a holiday. Despite this, Šipan, part of the Elaphite archipelago, has managed to avoid large-scale tourism and maintain its authentic charm.

Šipan is easy to visit on a day trip from Dubrovnik, with a boat ride taking just an hour. However, I recommend staying overnight in one of the two fishing villages, Šipanska Luka or Suđurađ. For a more secluded experience, renting a private room or apartment is ideal. These are affordable but limited, so booking in advance is necessary. The island’s tourist office can provide details. There are also two hotels: Hotel Šipan in Šipanska Luka and Hotel Božica in Suđurađ, which cater to those willing to spend a bit more.

What I loved about Šipan: the Renaissance villas, the fragrant winds (the island is known for its herbs), the clean seas, the coastal paths, the fishermen weaving their nets, and the colorful sunsets.

What I could have done without: a few more tourists than expected, aggressive wasps (especially when it hasn’t rained for a while), and sea urchins (a sign of clean water, but painful if stepped on).

I imagine that visiting Šipanska Luka out of season, in late September or early October, would feel like stepping into the magical world of Macondo from “One Hundred Years of Solitude.”

Šipan is a mythical place, full of legends, crazy winds, interesting characters, and a long history. If you tune out the noise and tune into the island’s natural rhythms, you can still feel its magic.

In the eleventh episode of my travel podcast series, I chat with Craig and Linda from Indie Travel Podcast about their four-month adventure in South America. They explored Chile, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, and Uruguay. During our conversation, they share the highlights of their journey, offer tips on traveling by bus, avoiding scams and pickpockets, and talk about their experiences staying with locals.

Craig and Linda particularly enjoyed the Salt Flat Tour in Bolivia, visiting the salt hotel, and exploring the Uros floating islands in Peru. They were also impressed by the stunning Iguazu Falls in Brazil. Additionally, they provide practical advice on catching buses in Chile and Peru and discuss their overall travel experiences in Peru and Bolivia.

For those looking to relax, they recommend the laid-back lifestyle of Bahia in Brazil.

I thoroughly enjoyed the relaxed and genuine Caribbean feel of St Kitts, which is part of the twin island nation of St Kitts and Nevis. Whether you’re exploring the island’s rich history or taking a leisurely walk through the rainforest, there’s something for everyone.

You can get active with water sports or simply relax like a local on one of the beautiful beaches. Here are my top 10 recommendations for things to do in St Kitts, especially if you’re near the cruise port or visiting on a cruise.

Start your island visit with a stroll around the laid-back capital of Basseterre. From Port Zante, walk through the archway of the Old Treasury to reach the Circus roundabout (there are no traffic lights in St Kitts!). Look out for the green Berkeley Memorial clock, a famous landmark. As you walk down Fort Street and Bank Street, you’ll find market stalls and food vendors offering everything from fruit smoothies to local dishes. If you love food, consider taking the Basseterre food and walking tour.

Nearby, you’ll find Independence Square, once the island’s slave market. The small doors at the base of the colonial houses nearby lead to basements where slaves were held before being sold.

Visit The Old Treasury, an impressive 19th-century building made of black volcanic stone at the edge of Port Zante. The central archway is known as ‘The Gateway to Basseterre,’ and upstairs you’ll find the small National Museum with charming displays that offer fascinating insights into the history and culture of St Kitts, including colorful carnival costumes and national dress.

All over St Kitts, you’ll find remnants of a once-thriving sugar industry. At Wingfield Estate, you can see the ruins of an old sugar mill and learn about the sugar industry. The aqueduct here once brought water from Mount Liamuiga to power the mill wheel, and the old rum distillery has been uncovered with plans to start rum production again.

Adjacent to Wingfield Estate is Romney Manor, named after the Earls of Romney who owned it for 200 years. Surrounded by botanical gardens, the estate’s Great House offers a peaceful setting where the gardens blend into the rainforest. Don’t miss the 400-year-old Saman tree and the Caribelle Batik workshop where you can buy colorful batik crafts and clothing.

Fairview Great House gives you a glimpse into the lifestyle of a wealthy plantation owner in the 18th century, with elegant porches, balconies, and a dining room set with antique silver. Upstairs, you’ll find the bedroom where Prince Charles stayed when the house was a hotel. Some tours include rum tasting or cookery demonstrations, and you can enjoy the well-kept gardens after your visit.

Brimstone Hill Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage site, was built by the British in the 17th and 18th centuries. Known as ‘The Gibraltar of the West Indies,’ the fortress offers spectacular views from the top of the stone citadel, with an impressive array of cannons. The fort can be reached by taxi and is included in many island tours.

The mountains of St Kitts are covered with natural rainforest, home to birds and Vervet monkeys. The most challenging walk is to the top of Mount Liamuiga, best done with a local guide. For a gentler walk, follow the trails on the Wingfield Estate under the Sky Safari zip wire. To learn about the forest trees and medicinal plants, consider hiring a knowledgeable guide such as O’Neil Mulraine.

The narrow gauge railway, built in the 1920s to transport sugar cane, now offers visitors a scenic tour around the island. The double-decker St Kitts Scenic Railway passes over steel bridges with views of Mount Liamuiga. Rum punch is served onboard while the guide provides an entertaining account of the sugar industry on St Kitts. The 3-4 hour round trip is best booked as a cruise excursion.

St Kitts offers plenty of watersports options. From glass-bottomed kayaks to exhilarating flyboarding, most beaches have kayaks, snorkels, or paddle boards to rent. The best range of watersports can be found at St Kitts Water Sports on Cockleshell Beach, where you can also join a jet-ski safari to the best snorkeling spots. A 4-hour sail and snorkel tour offers an ocean-side perspective of St Kitts and usually includes lunch.

If you prefer a relaxing day, take a taxi to the beaches on the South East peninsula. Cockleshell Bay is a popular choice with various beach bars and sunbeds to rent. For a quieter option, try South Friar’s Bay and rent a sun lounger at the Carambola Beach Club, or enjoy a hammock at the rustic Shipwreck Beach Bar.

Visiting St Kitts on a cruise is a fantastic way to get a taste of the island, but one day is never enough! If you’re planning a longer stay, I recommend the Marriott’s Resort for a luxurious experience. There are many other great hotels to choose from, and you can plan your visit by checking out the tourism board’s website.

British Airways flies to St Kitts from London Gatwick twice a week, and there are regular ferries to Nevis, making it easy to plan a combined stay on both islands. For guidebooks, I recommend the DK Eyewitness Caribbean Travel Guide or the Footprint Guide to St Kitts, Nevis, Antigua, and Montserrat.

Enjoy your visit to St Kitts!

As we reached Refuge Col de Balme, the mist was swirling around us, and the clouds were drifting over the high passes as dusk approached. Our path was blocked by a herd of cattle with large bells clanging around their necks. We stepped off the trail into the brush to let them pass, unsure if they might try to nudge us out of the way.

A bit further on, we found the Refuge in darkness, but a car was parked outside. I walked around and eventually, an elderly man came to the window. When he asked what I wanted, I explained that I had called to reserve a place. He opened the front door and showed us where to leave our rucksacks inside.

The dining room was warm from a metal stove in the middle of the floor, and my hands began to thaw out. We seemed to be the only hikers there, and an elderly lady served us hot tea from the bar. For supper, we had a simple meal of ham omelette, green salad, local cheese, and bread, followed by a blueberry tart.

Shortly after, three other hikers arrived: two men and a teenage boy who had come from Champex in the opposite direction. We compared notes and realized we both had trouble booking the Refuge. It seemed the couple running it were not keen on taking reservations. The lady showed us to the dormitories upstairs, where the electric lights only reached the stairwell and turned off automatically after a few minutes. Thankfully, we had head torches.

The lady brought us three blankets for the night, an extra one for my friend Julia, who wasn’t feeling well due to the altitude. I politely asked if I could also have an extra blanket, but she said there was no need as the three men would be in the dormitory with us, and we would all soon get warm. I wondered if the men might be in a separate room, but she dismissed the idea, saying the other rooms were closed for the season.

The toilet was just down the corridor, with a tap near the floor to fill a washing-up bowl and act as a sink. We were relieved we didn’t have to go outside into the freezing cold to use the portaloo meant for daytime visitors.

I went to bed fully clothed and lay awake for a few hours trying to get warm, draping my coat and spare fleece over me. In the morning, we discovered a second bathroom that the lady hadn’t mentioned. We hurried down to breakfast, which consisted of coffee and baguette with jam.

With our rucksacks packed, we set off along the path that skirted the mountainside, pausing to admire the view of Mont Blanc, its snow-capped peaks framed by a blue sky.

Later that day, we arrived at Chalet Bon Abri after crossing into Switzerland and reaching Champex Lac by hitchhiking, bus, and train. Just above the lake, we saw a tipi in a flower-filled garden and some campers playing table tennis. This place was a well-run Swiss hostel in a wooden chalet style, but everything inside was stylish and modern.

The lady showed us where to leave our boots downstairs and pointed to neatly stacked pairs of plastic clogs we could borrow to wear indoors. Upstairs, our dorm room had three bunks, but luckily we had the room to ourselves. The red-checked quilts and orange sheets looked invitingly cozy. Just down the corridor, there was a spotless new shower room with hot water, but since dinner was served promptly at 7 pm, we went down straight away.

We enjoyed an aperitif of white wine with cheesy wafer biscuits, followed by homemade carrot soup and chicken in a wine sauce. We examined the route we had just taken on the topographic map on the wall, which was perfect for planning our route for next year when we hope to walk another leg of the Tour de Mont Blanc from Champex Lac to Courmayeur.

Is it better to be high in the mountains with basic facilities or down in the valley with more comfort? Let’s just say we’re planning to start our walk from Chalet Bon Abri next year, and I can’t wait!