Author: simon611

Indonesia, with its more than 120 active volcanoes, is a hotspot for seismic activity. This archipelago, spanning an area as wide as the United States, offers stunning views of volcanoes from almost every angle.

When I first visited Indonesia, I compared my photos to a friend’s taken a few years earlier. Although the landscapes were the same, their features had changed significantly, sparking my fascination with this ever-evolving country shaped by volcanic activity.

Volcanic peaks are visible throughout Indonesia, but to truly appreciate them, you need to hike one. Standing on volcanic rocks, surrounded by ash, you can sometimes feel the earth move beneath you. The sound of a rumbling volcano is like a million old cars trying to start at once.

Each volcano has unique geological features, so it’s worth visiting a few. For instance, the sprawling volcanic complex at Ijen contrasts sharply with the perfect cone of Krakatoa. Calderas, or volcanic craters formed by collapsing magma chambers, can range from a few meters to hundreds of miles in size.

One morning at 3 am, my guide picked me up in a 4×4 and drove us into Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park on Java. We passed a checkpoint confirming no volcanic activity, so we continued safely. We reached a viewpoint to watch the sunrise over the park’s four volcanic peaks. Semeru, the highest peak, erupts every ten minutes, almost like clockwork, with a puff of smoke.

I then hiked for an hour to the rim of Bromo, which lies in a vast sandy plain known as the sea of sands. Walking along this dusty grey landscape, the volcano loomed ahead, with steps cut into the rock. From the rim, I could see the smoking plateau of white ash below. The continuous smoke and loud rumbles startled many visitors.

Nearby, a simple Hindu temple blends into the volcanic landscape. Local Hindus worship the volcano and celebrate Yadnya Kasada each June, throwing offerings into the crater to appease the mountain god.

From Mount Ijen’s peak on a clear day, you can see Bali. Part of an extensive volcanic landscape, Mount Ijen is the active volcano within the Ijen caldera, the largest on Java. I started my climb at 5 am, guided by the full moon’s light. After an hour, I reached a camp where locals offered tea, coffee, and biscuits. Another hour’s climb brought me to a narrow ridge overlooking the caldera.

During my visit, smoke covered the caldera, creating a spooky atmosphere. If you’re lucky, the smoke clears to reveal a turquoise lake, its color due to high acidity levels from hydrothermal waters rising from magma chambers below. The lake-side solfatara, where sulphurous gases burn with a neon blue light upon meeting oxygen, is a unique feature.

Sulphur miners start work at 2 am, descending steep paths into the volcano to hew chunks of sulphur, carrying them in baskets on their shoulders. It’s dangerous work, with many miners carrying more than their body weight in sulphur.

Descending the volcano in daylight, I saw the lush landscape covered in trees and shrubs. Volcanic ash breaks down into fertile soil, creating some of the most productive land on earth.

On Bali, Mount Batur rises above a landscape marked by craters from past eruptions. It sits between two merged calderas containing a crescent-shaped lake. From the viewpoint, you can see villages and roads winding around the lake. Bali attracts many visitors, so Batur can get busy. My guide suggested visiting at sunset when the volcano steams more, adding to the ambiance. The climb is gentler than other peaks, taking about two hours along well-marked paths. From the summit, you can see the lake and villages stretching across the caldera.

While waiting for sunset, my guide prepared a meal using a traditional oven made from a volcanic vent. We enjoyed hard-boiled eggs with rice and noodles, followed by cooked bananas with chocolate for dessert.

Krakatoa is the most unique volcano I’ve visited. On the boat journey from Java’s mainland, my guide explained its history. In 1883, a massive eruption split the island of Krakatoa into four smaller islands. The eruption’s noise is considered the loudest sound recorded in human history.

We visited Anak Krakatoa, the ‘child’ of the original volcano. As we approached, its neat cone shape rose from the sea. We set up camp on the beach, surrounded by barren black volcanic rock, with a small forest on the island’s east side.

Hiking up the volcano, we followed a safe route through a desolate wasteland. Volcanic rock changes color with age, marking each eruption. We stopped at a viewpoint, the highest safe point, with the smoking peak in the distance. The view was one of the best I’ve seen – an undisturbed panorama of Anak Krakatoa’s sister fragments in the ocean.

Nearby Rakata island shelters dazzling coral. A short boat ride brought us to its coast, where steep maroon lava walls rise above the water. Below the surface, vibrant coral thrives, nourished by the lava. Turtles glide over the coral, and neon-striped angel fish dart between them.

For convenience, fly into Singapore rather than Jakarta. Singapore offers a modern, English-speaking city with excellent transport, making it an easy introduction to Southeast Asia. Despite its modernity, Singapore has temples and colonial architecture intertwined with skyscrapers. Explore restored colonial mansions, botanical gardens, or sample local dishes in hawker markets.

End your volcano hiking trip with a few nights on Bali’s Sanur beach. Sheltered by a reef, it offers calm waters, relaxed beach bars, and serene sunsets. Freshly caught fish is sold at tiny stalls along the coast. For a longer beach stay, consider island hopping to Lombok, east of Bali, with quieter beaches and luxury hotels.

For the best experience, visit from late April to October when the skies are clear and there’s little rain. July and August can be busy, especially on weekends. For sunrise volcano visits, bring a warm jacket and layers, as temperatures can drop to 5°C (41°F). A scarf or balaclava can protect your face from ash if it’s windy. Wear walking shoes with good grip and use climbing poles for steep sections. And, of course, keep your camera handy for incredible photos.

Mat Hall is a Travel Specialist for Audley Travel, offering tailor-made trips based on your tastes, interests, and budget, with a commitment to quality travel experiences.

In South Wales, we explored the rich industrial heritage of Tredegar, a small town with a big history. This town, born from iron and coal mining in “The Valleys,” has been home to some notable figures who fought for better working conditions. We traced the steps of Aneurin Bevan, who grew up in Tredegar and later, as Minister of Health in 1945, established the National Health Service, providing free healthcare for all. Here are the stories and characters we discovered in Tredegar, from Chartists to Iron Masters to Nye Bevan, the ‘father of the NHS.’

Tredegar’s recent history is marked by social reformer and politician Nye Bevan, who was born in the town and grew up in a family of ten children. At 14, he left school to work at Tŷ Trist Colliery but educated himself through the library at the Tredegar Workman’s Hall. Despite a speech impediment, Bevan practiced speeches on long walks across the nearby moors at Trefil, overcoming his challenge.

The Tredegar Iron and Coal Company dominated employment in the town, and Bevan realized that political power was necessary to improve working conditions. He joined a socialist discussion group called the Query Club, became a union representative, and was elected to the District and County councils before winning the Ebbw Vale Parliamentary seat for Labour. As Minister for Health after World War II, Bevan led the formation of the NHS, inspired by a local healthcare model in Tredegar.

Bevan, known for his powerful oratory, often challenged wealth and privilege. He famously said, “When I listen to the cacophony of harsh voices trying to intimidate, I close my eyes and listen to the silent voices of the poor.” He was voted the top hero in a list of 100 Welsh heroes.

We began our exploration at Bedwellty House, a Grade II listed mansion with a 26-acre Victorian garden. Built in 1822, it was the home of Samuel Homfray, an Ironmaster and co-owner of the Tredegar Ironworks. After a £5M renovation in 2011, the mansion now serves as an education center, council offices, wedding venue, and cafe, and is free to visit. Bevan attended meetings in the council chamber here after being elected to the Tredegar Urban District Council in 1922.

In the surrounding gardens of Bedwellty Park, we enjoyed the ornamental grotto, icehouse, rose garden, water cascade, and walks among specimen trees. A notable feature is the enormous block of coal, originally intended for the Great Exhibition of 1851 but too heavy to transport.

The Orchid Tea Room, a local favorite for lunch, is a glazed extension built on the site of the original Orchid House. We enjoyed a Buck Rarebit, a traditional Welsh Rarebit topped with a poached egg. The cafe offers drinks, cakes, and light lunch dishes, with outdoor seating available in fine weather.

Bedwellty House is the starting point for the Aneurin Bevan Trail, which highlights places around town associated with Bevan. Iron plaques around town show a map of Tredegar with points of interest. A leaflet of the trail is available at the town’s heritage center or can be downloaded online.

We visited the Workman’s Hall and library, where Bevan educated himself, and walked to the town clock, a 72-foot high cast iron structure placed in the town square in 1859. The former Market Square, now known as “The Circle,” includes notable buildings like the offices of the Tredegar Medical Aid Society at No 10 The Circle.

Other points of interest on the town trail include the site of the Ty Trist Colliery, where Bevan began work at 14, and his mother’s home in Queen Street, which he used as a base for constituency work. The Tredegar Town Museum, located in the library, houses artifacts and information from Tredegar’s history.

The former offices of the Tredegar Medical Aid Society at No 10 The Circle have been renovated into a small heritage center. Displays explain how the society provided subscription-based medical care for local workers, with interactive audio and video exhibits. The society’s success inspired Bevan’s model for the NHS.

We also explored the Silver Statues trail, featuring metal silhouettes of notable figures from Tredegar’s history. We sat beside the figures of Nye Bevan and Walter Conway, who led the Tredegar Medical Aid Society to thrive, providing free medical services to 20,000 locals.

In Bedwellty Park, we found the statue of Samuel Homfrey, an Iron Master who co-founded the Tredegar Ironworks. The park also features statues of Anne Prosser and Mary Jones, young girls who worked in the mines in the 1800s. Child labor was common, and harsh working conditions were highlighted in an 1841 investigation, leading to a law prohibiting the employment of children under 10 in mines.

A short drive from Tredegar, we visited the Aneurin Bevan Memorial Stones, where Bevan gave open-air speeches. The central stone represents Bevan, with three others pointing to the towns of his constituency. Numerous walking and cycling trails, including the Sirhowy Valley Walk, start here.

For lunch, we enjoyed the Orchid House tea room at Bedwellty House, and for dinner, we dined at the Tredegar Arms Hotel and Restaurant, which serves excellent pub fare. The hotel, once a coach house for the Tredegar Ironworks, offers luxury en-suite bedrooms and suites.

We also visited the village of Trefil, where Bevan practiced his speeches. With our guide, we walked to the Chartists Cave, a meeting point for the Chartist movement, which fought for democratic rights for working men. The cave was used to hide weapons made secretly at the ironworks.

Our walk took us to the high point overlooking the Dyffryn Valley, where Bevan’s ashes were scattered. We continued through the old Trefil quarry, now abandoned, and returned via the access road for the new quarry.

If you visit Trefil, stop at the Top House Bar, a community pub serving drinks and home-cooked food. It was a favorite spot of Bevan, who loved to walk locally on the moors.

Near Tredegar, we visited the Guardian sculpture, commemorating the 50th anniversary of the Six Bells mining disaster. The names of 45 miners who died in the 1960 disaster are cut into the metal panels around the plinth of the statue.

We stayed at Roundhouse Farm near Nantyglo, about 15 minutes from Tredegar. The farm includes one of the Round Towers, built by local iron masters as a place of refuge during worker riots. The cottages at Roundhouse Farm are well-equipped and offer a cozy stay with contemporary furnishings.

For more information on Tredegar and Southern Wales, visit the Southern Wales and Visit Monmouthshire websites. Follow their social media feeds for more inspiration.

Hotel Zur Post is a charming, family-run guesthouse in Austria, making it a cozy spot for a few days of sightseeing in Salzburg. After a couple of hours’ drive from Munich airport, we were grateful for our Sat Nav, which helped us easily locate Hotel Zur Post on one of the roads leading into the old town.

Upon arrival, we parked in a small area next to the garden and checked in with the friendly, English-speaking receptionist. She directed us to our room and offered helpful sightseeing tips. Initially, we were given a family room on the first floor, but since it faced a busy road, we requested a quieter room. Fortunately, another family room was available in a separate house set back from the road. This room had a spacious double room overlooking the garden and a smaller single room, perfect for our teenage son. Although the fittings weren’t as modern as the first room, the quieter location suited us better, and we had a restful night’s sleep.

The large double bedroom was traditionally furnished with a wood and padded leather headboard, dark wood furniture, and blue and cream striped curtains. There was a large mirrored wardrobe with ample storage space. The smaller room had a cream leather sofa matching the headboard and similar traditional furnishings. While the decor wasn’t particularly stylish, the room was spacious, clean, and comfortable, making it a great base for sightseeing in Salzburg.

The bathroom was a mix of old-fashioned fixtures and a modern green glass sink, which seemed to be a recent addition. It wasn’t particularly stylish but was clean and functional.

The receptionist was very helpful, providing us with a tourist map and marking points of interest. She advised us to take the bus into the old town from just across the street and sold us the Salzburg card, which offered free entry to major sites and free public transport. We opted for the 24-hour pass for €22 per adult, which provided good value for our short stay.

After settling in, we decided to visit Hangar 7, a free motor and aeronautical museum known for its great food. We found it was an easy walk from the hotel, along the canal and through residential areas. We spent a couple of hours admiring the Formula 1 cars and vintage planes before relaxing in the Mayday bar with exotic fruit smoothies. Intrigued by the Smart Food concept, I ordered the Brainfood set menu for dinner, while my husband and son enjoyed a hearty meal at Gasthaus Kuglof, a nearby restaurant recommended by the hotel.

The next morning, we enjoyed a good breakfast at Hotel Zur Post, featuring a typical buffet of cold meats, cheese, eggs, pastries, rolls, and a variety of teas and fresh coffee. The breakfast room was cheerful and modern, in contrast to our traditionally styled bedroom.

Hotel Zur Post has limited public areas, with no sitting area that we could find. The breakfast room might have been available for guests, but it was closed when we passed by later. However, there was free internet access via a cable in our bedroom and Wi-Fi in the breakfast room, though we didn’t have a chance to test it.

Since we spent most of our time sightseeing, the lack of sitting areas didn’t bother us. Hotel Zur Post is ideal for those touring Austria by car, as it offers convenient parking and avoids the hassle of driving into Salzburg’s old town. The hotel is a 15-minute bus ride from the old town, with frequent buses, making it easy to get around. However, those who prefer to return to their hotel during the day might prefer staying in the old town itself.

Overall, Hotel Zur Post is a great base for sightseeing in Salzburg, especially for those arriving by car. The staff is very helpful, and the hotel provides a peaceful retreat from the bustling old town.

Kensington Gardens is one of the most beautiful parks in London, featuring formal gardens, water features, and 265 acres of parkland. Despite being open to the public, it feels intimate, likely due to its connection to Kensington Palace, home to many Royal Family members.

I explored Kensington Gardens and Kensington Palace to discover all the attractions. Here’s a guide on what to see and do during your visit to London.

Kensington Gardens seamlessly connects with Hyde Park, forming one large green space divided only by The Serpentine and West Carriage Drive. King William and Queen Mary purchased and expanded Kensington Palace in the late 17th century for a healthier residence than Whitehall Palace. Subsequent monarchs developed the gardens, with Queen Charlotte creating The Serpentine by damming a river.

Kensington Palace is home to many royals, offering privacy and security. It was once home to Princess Margaret and Princess Diana. Currently, the Duke and Duchess of Kent live there, and William and Kate, the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, have a large apartment within the palace. Harry and Meghan, the Duke and Duchess of Sussex, originally lived in Nottingham Cottage. Princess Eugenie and her husband Jack Brooksbank also reside there.

Kensington Palace is where Queen Victoria grew up, sharing a bedroom with her mother until she became queen at 18. The romantic Italian gardens, commissioned by Prince Albert for Queen Victoria, and the Albert Memorial, erected by Queen Victoria in his memory, are notable attractions.

Princess Diana loved the sunken gardens next to Kensington Palace. In 2017, the garden was planted with white flowers in her memory. The Princess Diana Memorial Playground and the Diana Princess of Wales Memorial Walk are also popular.

There’s so much to see in Kensington Gardens that you could spend a whole day there. Visiting Kensington Palace alone could take a couple of hours. Start your walk from Kensington Palace, easily accessible from Kensington High Street tube, and explore the beautiful sunken gardens laid out in 1908. The gardens are enclosed by rose-covered arches and hedges, with a formal pond and fountains.

Next, head to the Round Pond, created by Queen Charlotte. It’s a great spot to see geese, ducks, and swans, although feeding them is not recommended. Continue to the south side of the park to see the impressive Albert Memorial, unveiled in 1872, with its ornate spire and golden figure of Prince Albert.

From the Albert Memorial, walk up West Carriage Drive to the Serpentine Gallery, which hosts contemporary art exhibitions and is free to visit. On the other side of the Serpentine Bridge is the Serpentine Sackler Gallery, also offering free contemporary art exhibitions.

Cross over West Carriage Drive to see the Diana Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain in Hyde Park. The circular watercourse, made from Cornish Granite, reflects Diana’s life with its varying water flows. Nearby, the Lido Cafe and Bar offers a pleasant spot to relax.

Follow the edge of the Long Water to see the Peter Pan statue, commissioned by J M Barrie, and the exotic green parakeets in the trees. On the other side of the Long Water, you’ll find The Arch, a sculpture by Henry Moore.

The Italian Gardens, created by Prince Albert in 1860, feature marble urns, formal pools, fountains, and geometric flower beds. The Italian Garden Cafe is a great place to sit and admire the gardens.

The Diana Memorial Playground, with its wooden pirate ship and play sculptures, is popular with children. The Broad Walk Cafe and the Elfin Oak, a charming sculpture of elves, are nearby.

Kensington Palace has strong connections with Queen Victoria and Princess Diana, reflected in its exhibitions. Highlights include the painted staircase by William Kent, the king’s art collection in the long gallery, and the collection of Diana’s dresses showing her evolving fashion style.

Queen Victoria’s childhood at Kensington Palace is also showcased, with intimate objects from her daily life and stunning tiaras and jewels. It’s cheaper to book tickets online, and the exhibition “Diana: Her Fashion Story” is especially popular.

Kensington Gardens is easily reached by public transport, with the closest tube stations being Kensington High Street, Queensway, Lancaster Gate, Knightsbridge, and Hyde Park Corner.

Light, air, and water are the perfect ingredients for relaxation and recuperation on holiday. In our busy lives, we need moments to stop, rest, and just gaze at the horizon. Holiday time provides the opportunity to refocus on our health and wellbeing. We found all of these moments and more at Kurhotel Skodsborg in Copenhagen, one of the top luxury spa hotels in the city.

The hotel started as a sanatorium, founded in 1898 by Dr. Carl Ottosen, who studied health and physiotherapy in the USA. Before antibiotics, recovery from illness often relied on the body’s natural healing through rest and a healthy diet. Dr. Ottosen’s principles of light, air, water, nutrition, exercise, and rest are still part of the hotel’s ethos today, combining outstanding spa and fitness facilities with a professional health center. During our stay in early summer, my daughter and I reflected on how these principles are key to a healthy and relaxing holiday.

Water surrounds you, bathes you, and washes away your cares. As children, we splash and squeal in the pleasure of it. The spa at Kurhotel Skodsborg is a beautiful space to relax in water, with pools, relaxation rooms, various saunas, and a four-season water experience that left us giggling at the sounds of spring birds and autumn thunderclaps. There’s even a snow dispenser to recreate the authentic Scandinavian experience of running out of the sauna to roll in the fresh snow. We loved the delicate ornamentation by artist Marlene Bach, inspired by Moroccan hammam tile patterns and colored glass panels set into the glazed roof.

After your sauna, put on your toweling robe and walk to the private jetty where you can jump into the water and cool off with a yelp of pleasure. In winter, the tradition of a hot spa followed by a cold dip continues, and in summer, swimming lanes are set up in the sea for exercise. After our exercise class, I jumped in fully clothed while the Danish ladies around me stripped off to enjoy the chill water on bare skin.

I love being by the sea because of the soft light, the reflections on the water, and the wide skies as you watch the horizon. The sea is hypnotic and therapeutic, with a different aspect to enjoy in every season. Scandinavian summers are warm and spent amidst nature, and it’s no surprise that North Sealand, just north of Copenhagen, is a favorite summer spot for Copenhageners.

At Kurhotel Skodsborg, they make healthy choices easy with delicious menu options. Each day, a different Dr. Ottosen’s juice drink is available, made from fruit and vegetables pressed by a slow juicing method to maximize vitamins and minerals. You might get a performance-boosting combination of cucumber, celery, pear, and apple, or an anti-inflammatory mix of beetroot, apple, watercress, lemon, and ginger. These juices were created by top Copenhagen cocktail maker Gromit Eduardson to be both fresh and healthy.

The hotel also offers a healthy take on afternoon tea, served on elegant Georg Jensen china. Instead of scones with clotted cream and jam, you get thick slices of smoked salmon with paleo bread made from nuts and seeds, and a small pat of soft whipped butter. The cakes are less sweet, flavored with dark chocolate or fruit, and have a nutty texture. I loved the shortbread sandwiched with raspberry jam, like a sophisticated jammy dodger, washed down with fennel tea in homage to the liquorice-loving Danes. Tea with Georg is served in The Lounge, where you can relax on squashy velvet sofas.

Dr. Carl Ottosen wrote that “Man has more endurance when work is interchanged with rest,” and the chance to relax and catch up on sleep is one of the joys of being on holiday. Studies show that health and wellbeing are closely linked to the amount of sleep you get. The better we sleep, the more energy we have to exercise, leading to greater health and vitality. After a day or so at Kurhotel Skodsborg, I found the atmosphere so restful that I didn’t want to leave, even though there is plenty to see in the area.

My room, with its soft green décor, reflected the royal forest of Dyrehaven behind the hotel. From the balcony, I could watch a perfect white sail drift across the horizon. The white squashy sofas on the sunny roof terrace transported me to lazy days in a trendy Greek beach bar, and I discovered another terrace above the spa, perfect for sunbathing.

Wherever you are heading on holiday this summer, I hope you take the opportunity to relax, unwind, and enjoy a healthy holiday. Kurhotel Skodsborg is a contemporary Nordic spa hotel just north of Copenhagen in the North Sealand region. It’s located on the coast road beside the ocean, yet only a 30-minute train ride to the city center. The hotel has 80 rooms and suites, meeting rooms, and conference facilities. If you’re looking for a relaxing weekend destination, you’ll enjoy the extensive spa and fitness facilities, the private jetty for ocean swimming, the rooftop terrace with a sundeck, and the restaurant and lobby bar serving healthy Nordic cuisine and cocktails.

Today, I had the most amazing stuffed tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers filled with rice, herbs, and local Greek cheese. These were prepared by Katy, my sister’s Greek mother-in-law, whom we affectionately call Yia Yia, which means granny in Greek. I’d love to share the recipe with you, but it’s a bit of a story, so here it goes.

First, you need to understand that Greeks have a deep connection to their land. On the island of Zakynthos, where we stay, everyone has a field or a vegetable patch, or at least someone in their extended family does. Greeks are very particular about the origin of their food. While tourists might get imported produce, locals save the best for themselves, which usually means what they or their family have grown, caught, or raised.

To make perfect stuffed tomatoes, start by picking the ripest red tomatoes from your vegetable patch, which have been sun-baked and lovingly watered all summer. Also, pick some shiny purple eggplants and green peppers from the garden.

Next, head to your shed and grab a few onions that you grew over the winter, harvested in the spring, and left to dry in bunches. Cut the tops off all the vegetables and scoop out the flesh of the eggplants and tomatoes, chopping it into small pieces. Sauté this mixture in your own olive oil with chopped onions, mint, oregano from your garden, and some seasoning. Add dry rice and cook gently until the rice swells, adding a bit of extra water if needed.

Now, incorporate some pieces of local cheese, which you bought from a farmer in the spring and matured yourself in olive oil in a barrel lined with beach stones to keep the cheese from sitting in residue. If you can’t get such local cheese, feta will do.

Stuff your vegetables with the rice, vegetable, and herb mixture, and add some peeled potatoes from your vegetable patch. Drizzle olive oil generously over the vegetables, using oil from your own olive trees, which you pressed in the autumn by shaking the trees over nets and taking the olives to the local co-op for pressing.

Bake the stuffed vegetables in a moderate oven for 45-60 minutes until they are soft, tender, and delicious.

Enjoy this meal for a late lunch on the veranda in the shade, finishing with some chunks of watermelon from your patch. Follow it up with a siesta for a couple of hours.

Eating at home in Greece truly redefines the concept of eating local produce.

During our trip to Bavaria to see the Oberammergau Passion Play, we spent a couple of nights in the pilgrimage town of Altötting, about an hour’s drive east of Munich. I’ve heard that Altötting is as significant in Germany as Lourdes is in France for pilgrims.

Over the three days of Pentecost, 30,000 people gather in Altötting for a candle-lit procession around the town square. However, during our stay, the town was much quieter, making it a pleasant, picturesque, and relaxing place to visit for a couple of days.

We stayed at Hotel Zur Post, located right on the main square. We first tried some Bavarian specialties for lunch at the cafes around the square and then wandered around to get our bearings. We didn’t explore the many churches that afternoon since we had a guided walking tour scheduled for the next morning.

The heart of the town is the small Chapel of Mercy at one end of the town square, which houses the shrine to the Black Madonna. This small black statue of the Madonna and baby Jesus is dressed in richly embroidered robes. The Black Madonna is believed to have performed many miracles, with a legend dating back to the 15th century when a drowned child was revived after his mother prayed to the Madonna.

The chapel has an ambulatory or covered walkway around its exterior, with walls and roof covered by small pictures depicting miracles experienced by those who prayed there, all with the phrase “Maria Hat Geholfen” (Maria has helped). You can also see a collection of crutches and leg braces discarded by those cured of their ailments. Wooden crosses are available in the walkway, and the faithful carry a cross three times around the perimeter while praying for forgiveness.

The interior of the chapel is painted black, a color originally created from candle soot but now maintained through painted walls. In front of the altar are two large solid silver statues. The one on the right was commissioned by Emperor Karl Albrecht after his son recovered from a fatal illness and weighs 41 pounds, the same as his son. Opposite kneels the silver statue of Saint Conrad of Parzham, the sexton of St Anna’s Capuchin monastery, who is buried in St Conrad’s church.

Inside the shrine, the dark walls are covered by silver ornaments, and silver caskets containing the hearts of the Kings of Bavaria from the Wittelsbach dynasty hang from the ceiling. This is why Altötting is called the ‘Heart of Bavaria’ by Pope Benedict XVI, who was born nearby in Marktl and has a close connection to the town.

After starting our tour beside the shrine, we followed our guide around the many churches of the town, built over centuries to accommodate pilgrims. Our guide shared stories and anecdotes that brought the town to life for us. After the 30 Years’ War ended in 1670, the townspeople created the current large open square. There were plans to build a larger dome over the small chapel, but the money ran out, so the chapel remained unchanged, and a larger church was built in 1876 alongside it.

Our guide pointed out the metal cockerel on top of the steeple, placed there to remind of what Jesus said to Peter: “before the cock crows you will have betrayed me three times.” Candles are not allowed inside the chapel for fear of fire, so they are lit at a small kiosk near the front.

We next visited the church of St Philip and Jacob, where our guide pointed out that the ornate and brightly colored statues of the saints are traditionally carved from wood and then lacquered. At the back of the church is the much-photographed Tod von Eding clock with a statue of the Grim Reaper on top, swinging slowly from side to side, reminding everyone of the number of people who died from the plague and during the 30 Years’ War.

In the basilica, we paused in front of photos of men from the town killed during World War II. Our guide shared that he had six brothers, three of whom were killed in the war, calling it a “Crazy War.”

I particularly liked the interior of the church of St Conrad, part of the monastery where Saint Conrad of Parzham was a Capuchin friar. He died in 1894 and was beatified in 1934. This church was much simpler compared to the other ornate churches. The remains of the saint are interred in a life-size metal statue at the base of the altar, with his skull on display. We saw the small room where the Saint slept as a doorkeeper at the church. Outside was a water fountain from a statue of the Saint, with a steady stream of people filling their water bottles, as the water is considered holy, flowing over the saint’s finger bone in a casket.

Just outside the church of St Conrad, our guide pointed out a small tree known as the Pope’s Linden tree, planted by Pope John Paul II during his visit to Altötting in 1980. Although there was no time in the schedule for the Pope to stop and plant the tree, he found someone who spoke Polish to have a quiet word with the Pope, who then agreed to stop and plant it. Our guide showed us a photo of him meeting the Pope and the rosary given to him by Pope John Paul II, which many people instinctively reached out to touch.

With many other interesting stories, our tour covered all the churches of Altötting. At the end of our tour, we took an optional visit to the Jerusalem Panorama at Altötting. This panoramic painting, created by Professor Gebhard Fugel in 1903, depicts Jerusalem at the time of Jesus’s death with different scenes from the Crucifixion around the walls. Standing in the center, the audio-guide narrated the scenes, making it an interesting addition to our pilgrimage tour.

There are several walking and cycling trails around Altötting, including the Benedict Route, which takes cyclists 248 km around towns significant to Pope Benedict XVI’s childhood and youth. The town is also worth visiting during Advent and Christmas, with a Christmas market on the chapel square and many advent concerts in the churches.

Taking photos is both a joy and a challenge when traveling. I love capturing every moment, whether it’s a stunning view, a beautiful sunset, or a delicious meal. However, even short trips can result in hundreds or thousands of photos. These photos are essential for illustrating my blog articles, sharing on social media, and potentially using for future projects. They also include cherished memories with my husband, friends, and family. Losing any of these photos would be devastating, both personally and professionally. That’s why I was excited to try out the Western Digital My Passport external hard drive on my recent Uniworld cruise.

Before my trip, I tested the My Passport and discovered it needed formatting to work with my Apple Mac. The box indicated compatibility with Windows 8, Windows 7, or Windows Vista, but reformatting was required for Mac OS. Following the instructions from the included leaflet, I visited the provided website and found the formatting guide, which took about 10 minutes.

The My Passport is compact, measuring around 11cm x 8cm, making it easy to pack with my other travel essentials. I appreciated its slim, shiny white design, although aesthetics don’t affect its functionality. The version I have offers 1 TB of storage, which is 1000 GB. After a week-long trip, I had only used 6 GB, so there’s plenty of space left.

I already own two external hard drives for photo and video backups, which I use after each trip. However, since they contain several years’ worth of photos, I prefer not to travel with them to avoid the risk of losing everything. Instead, having a third hard drive like the My Passport for trips is ideal. I can use it as a backup and then clear it after each trip. Western Digital also offers a My Cloud personal storage unit for automatic home backups, which is another excellent option as my photo collection grows.

During the cruise, I transferred photos from my iPhone to my MacBook and then to the My Passport. This way, if my laptop or phone was lost or damaged, I still had a copy of the photos. Once home, I uploaded the best photos to my Flickr album and transferred them to my home hard drives, clearing the My Passport for the next trip. Spending 30 minutes every couple of days on this process is a small effort compared to the risk of losing my photos.

Even if you’re only taking photos for personal enjoyment and don’t travel with a laptop, having an external hard drive like the My Passport to back up your photos after returning home is a great idea. The security features allow for password protection if storing confidential information. There’s also an option for automatic laptop backups, though I don’t use this feature.

Since my review, Western Digital has updated the My Passport design with new colors. Overall, I found the My Passport easy to use and it provided peace of mind while traveling, knowing my photos were safely backed up.

Do you back up your photos when you travel? If so, what method do you use?

Southampton, located on England’s South Coast, is often overlooked. Despite being heavily bombed during the war and not being the most picturesque city, it serves as one of Europe’s major cruise ports, welcoming millions of visitors each year.

If you take the time to explore, you’ll find plenty to do in Southampton. The city boasts museums, cultural attractions, and an intriguing old town with medieval walls and houses. The port also serves as a gateway to the beautiful Hampshire countryside and the New Forest, with many nearby attractions easily accessible for day trips.

For those visiting Southampton by cruise, here are some recommended activities in and around the city:

Just a short distance from the port, you can walk along the medieval city walls of Southampton. These walls, built to protect the town from sea attacks, encircle the old town. You can still see the arcades that once served as entrances to warehouses where wine barrels were stored. Walking along the top of the walls, you would have overlooked the beach, a popular spot for sea bathing in the 18th century. On weekends, guided tours of the wall start at Bargate, or you can pick up a self-guided walk leaflet from The Tudor House.

In Southampton’s Old Quarter, a short walk from the cruise port, you’ll find the recently restored Tudor House. An audio guide takes you through the rooms, revealing the history of Southampton over the centuries. Dating back to the 15th century, the house features a pretty Tudor knot garden and views over the city walls. There’s also a kitchen set up with food that the Tudors would have enjoyed and a glass-sided café overlooking the garden. Nearby, the Merchant’s House offers another glimpse into Southampton’s history, furnished and preserved as it would have been in the Middle Ages.

For shopping enthusiasts, the West Quay shopping mall in the center of Southampton houses international brands, including major stores like John Lewis and Marks and Spencer. You’ll find a wide range of fashion, lifestyle, and technology stores, as well as plenty of cafes and restaurants. For designer names at bargain prices, visit the Gunwharf Quays outlet shopping center near Portsmouth Harbour, accessible by train from Southampton.

The SeaCity Museum explores Southampton’s maritime history, including its connection to the Titanic, which set sail from the city in 1912 with most of its crew hailing from Southampton. The museum features interactive exhibits, such as the Disaster Room, where the 1930s inquiry into the Titanic’s loss is replayed. Next to the SeaCity Museum is the Southampton City Art Gallery, which showcases contemporary and twentieth-century art, old masters, and impressionists like Monet. The gallery also hosts regularly changing exhibitions.

For a fun-packed day out, visit the Beaulieu motor museum, which houses over 250 vehicles from motoring history. The museum is set beside a lake and includes a 13th-century Cistercian abbey and the stately home of the Montagu family. You can wander through the orchards and gardens or get around on the high-level monorail or the open-top vintage bus. Nearby, Buckler’s Hard, an 18th-century village where ships for Nelson’s navy were built, is also worth a visit.

At Portsmouth Historic Dockyard, you can explore some of Britain’s most historic ships, including Lord Nelson’s flagship HMS Victory and the Tudor warship Mary Rose. The harbor scene is dominated by the 170-meter tall Emirates Spinnaker Tower, offering views over the harbor from the skywalk and café in the clouds. A short walk away is the designer shopping outlet at Gunwharf Quays, and one stop further on the train is the trendy area of Southsea with boutique stores and independent eateries.

For a taste of rural Hampshire life, visit the market town of Romsey, gateway to the Test Valley. Behind the tourist office is the medieval King John’s House, which brings to life 750 years of history in Romsey. Nearby, the imposing medieval Romsey Abbey contains beautiful religious art and treasures. You can also join the long-distance walking path, the Test Way, following the River Test past nature reserves and Broadlands, the home of the late Lord Mountbatten.

Winchester, once King Alfred’s capital, is a quintessentially English place to visit. At its heart is the ancient Winchester Cathedral, where Jane Austen is buried. Stroll along the river to see a working water mill at Winchester City Mill and the ruins of Winchester Palace. Further up the hill is the Great Hall with a replica of King Arthur’s round table and the 18th-century Peninsula Barracks with several military museums.

Stonehenge, one of Europe’s best-known prehistoric monuments, is a masterpiece of Neolithic engineering. Start at the visitor center with exhibitions and Neolithic-style houses, then walk around the stone circle. Your visit can be easily combined with a trip to the cathedral city of Salisbury, home to elegant houses inside the cathedral close, such as Arundells, the home of British Prime Minister Edward Heath.

When your cruise concludes in Southampton, consider a post-shore excursion to London via Salisbury, Stonehenge, and Windsor. Taxis are available at the Southampton cruise port terminal, and train fares for return tickets to nearby attractions range from £5-12, depending on distance and time of day. Bus tickets are generally cheaper but may take longer.

For more information, visit the Discover Southampton and Visit Hampshire websites.

On the fifth day of our Mediterranean cruise with MSC Cruises, we arrived in Messina, Sicily, and took a trip to the charming town of Taormina, famous for its Greek theatre. Taormina is about a 45-minute drive from the cruise port and offers a great view of Mount Etna, Europe’s most active volcano, which often glows or puts on a natural firework display at night. Just last year, Taormina experienced a shower of ash from Mount Etna, and our guide pointed out the black rock peninsula below the town, formed by an ancient lava flow.

Taormina has always been strategically important in Sicily because it overlooks the shipping routes towards the Straits of Messina. Founded by the Greeks in 350 BC, the town once boasted five temples and a theatre at the height of its wealth. Over the centuries, it was dominated by the Romans and later invaded by the Arabs, Normans, French, and Spanish, creating a rich cultural mix.

In Roman times, Sicily was known for its fine wines and thriving olive and almond trees. The Arabs introduced aromatic plants, coffee, lemons, and sugar, which are now used in Sicilian specialties like lemon granita, sweet almond liqueur, and colorful marzipan fruits found in Taormina’s shops. Locals often start their summer mornings with a coffee granita and enjoy pastries called cannoli, filled with sweetened ricotta cheese.

Taormina is divided into two parts: the hilltop area we visited and Taormina Mare by the sea, where the train from Messina stops. A funicular connects the two areas. We entered the old town through Porta Catania, facing the city of Catania, while the gate at the other end, Porta Messina, faces Messina. In the first small square, we saw a church and a central fountain topped by Taormina’s symbol, a centaur, half woman and half horse. Our guide showed us the old town hall, flying the European, Italian, and Sicilian flags, as Sicily has its own constitution and parliament. The Sicilian flag features a symbol with three legs representing the island’s three points, with a Medusa head at the center.

We strolled down Corso Umberto, a narrow street lined with shops selling fashionable clothing, hand-painted ceramics, pastries, and marzipan sweets. Many old houses had Spanish-style wrought iron balconies, and our guide explained that this part of town dates back to the Middle Ages. The second square, known as Panorama Square, offers a stunning view over the sea and lower town towards Mount Etna. This area marks the start of the original Greek part of town, leading to Piazza Victor Emanuale, the site of the Greek agora and later the Roman Forum. The pedestrianized street made for a pleasant walk down a slight hill to the square where Palazzo Corvaja is located. This building, developed over centuries by the Romans, Normans, and Arabs, served as a private residence and a parliament building, and now houses the tourist office and a museum.

From there, we headed up the hill to the Greek Theatre, one of Taormina’s main attractions. Built by the Greeks in the 3rd century and later expanded by the Romans, the theatre’s capacity increased from 5,000 to 7,000 people. The audience enjoys the best view in town, looking over the sea towards Mount Etna, framed by the arches at the back of the stage. The theatre hosted Greek plays and later Roman gladiatorial contests and wild animal fights. It is still used in the summer for opera, ballet, and other musical productions, attracting well-known Italian and international artists. The acoustics are so perfect that even those in the cheap seats at the top can hear as well as those in the front rows.

As our tour ended at the Greek Theatre, we had 45 minutes to wander back through the town, enjoying the shops and stopping for a gelato, though I wished for another hour to explore more thoroughly.

Back on the ship, I had a relaxing facial treatment at the Aura Spa. Lying on the treatment bed, covered in a towel, with soft lights changing color and soothing music and birdsong around me, it was easy to drift off. Only the occasional cool cream or hot cloth brought me back, and I left with my skin feeling beautifully soft and smooth.

Tomorrow, we leave Europe and head to Tunis, where we plan to explore the ancient site of Carthage and the picturesque coastal village of Sidi Bou Said.