Have you ever visited a hotel that seems frozen in time? Imagine stepping into the home of your bohemian great aunt, the one who hosted poets and artists, including Jean Cocteau and Charles de Gaulle, at her dinner table.

When you go to Baalbek, you’re there to see the Roman ruins of Heliopolis, the city of the sun and one of the greatest Roman cities of its era. Staying at the Palmyra Hotel, you can almost feel the presence of elegant travelers from the 1930s and 40s, who passed through on their grand tours of the Middle East. It’s like walking into an Agatha Christie novel, expecting to see ladies in picture hats and gentlemen in linen suits, followed by their drivers carrying crocodile leather suitcases.

However, the elegance of the past is now a bit worn. The once-handsome doormen are now elderly and tired, waiting to open the door for the occasional guest. When I passed through and said “Choukran,” the elderly doorman responded with a long, croaky “Weeelcome.”

The manager welcomed us into his ornately tiled office, complete with a leather blotter and an old-fashioned telephone, but no computer in sight. This isn’t a stylish retro setup; it’s the real deal! When we asked about a hot bath, he seemed doubtful but eventually got the boiler working in time for us to bathe before bed.

In the lobby, there are old velvet-covered chairs, a few ancient artifacts that might have been taken from the Roman ruins before such things were frowned upon, and framed drawings by Jean Cocteau on the walls. They’ve made an effort to spruce up the bedrooms, and I actually like the look of the faded Persian rugs, velvet curtains, and dark-wood furniture. But the bathrooms look like they haven’t been updated since the 1940s!

We had a good laugh at breakfast when my friend asked for an omelet, in addition to the bread, jam, and olives on offer. The waiter was very accommodating and even went out to buy eggs just for her! Although we were there mid-week, the hotel seemed almost empty, and I suspect most Lebanese visitors prefer more modern, glitzy accommodations.

The Palmyra Hotel is really waiting for someone to invest in it and turn it into a gorgeous boutique hotel with modern plumbing. Despite its current state, I can’t help but smile affectionately when I think about our stay. It’s a charming relic of the past, but probably best for just one night!