The GR221, also known as the Dry Stone Route, is a long-distance trail located on the western side of Mallorca. This trail winds through the Serra Tramuntana mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site celebrated for its culturally significant landscape.

Unlike Mallorca’s popular beaches and holiday resorts, the Dry Stone Route, with its ancient cobbled paths and dry stone walls, offers a unique hiking experience. It’s one of the top spots for hiking on the island.

Our journey on the GR221 began in the charming artist’s village of Deia, took us through the bustling resort of Port de Soller, and into the Tramuntana mountains. The first part of our hike was detailed in another post.

In this second section, we started from the Cuber reservoir, took a bus to the Santuari de Lluc, and stayed there for a couple of nights before hiking on to Port de Pollença, eventually concluding our trip in Palma, the island’s capital.

We had originally planned to stay at the Refugi de Tossals Verds, but it was closed for renovations. Instead, we booked two nights at the Lluc Monastery, a simple guest accommodation overlooking the church. We attended the 11 o’clock Sunday mass to hear the renowned Blauet choir sing.

The choir school children, dressed in bright blue robes, entered the packed church as the mass began. A painted screen slid back, revealing a small statue of the Madonna, known as La Moreneta, wearing her crown above the altar. After the mass, the statue turned to face the prayer chapel, accessible by stairs beside the altar.

The service was beautiful, despite some tourists’ disruptive behavior, such as taking flash photographs and filming the ceremony. One young girl making her confirmation had two photographers constantly taking pictures, even from behind the altar. As a Catholic, I was surprised by the disrespectful attitude of some visitors, but the priest remained patient and good-humored throughout.

After mass, we started one of the GR221 stages in the opposite direction. Near the monastery gates, we found the familiar cobblestone path that gives the Dry Stone Route its name. There was a nearby water collection point, where locals filled large containers with spring water for their week’s supply.

Passing through the holm oaks, we saw several Sitges, circular stone charcoal burning hearths. Charcoal burners lived in simple stone huts in these woods until the 1920s. We also passed deep snow pits, used before refrigeration to store ice blocks from the mountains, covered with leaves to prevent melting.

Emerging from the woodland, we followed a cobbled stone path with dry stone retaining walls zigzagging up to the Puig d’en Galileu. From the plateau below the rocky crest, we enjoyed stunning views across the valley, down towards the Lluc monastery, and towards the coast and the Torrent de Pareis gorge.

After a picnic lunch at the crest, clouds began to cover the rocky peaks. To avoid getting lost in the clouds, we decided to retrace our steps on the GR221 back into the valley.

Returning to Lluc Monastery around 4 pm, we visited the interesting museum, which showcased archaeological artifacts, Mallorcan costumes, and traditional furniture. I particularly enjoyed the paintings by Josep Coll Bardolet, a Spanish impressionistic artist who made Valldemossa his home.

The next morning, after breakfast, we walked the path with the stations of the rosary within the monastery grounds, leading up to a rocky pinnacle with a huge iron cross overlooking the monastery.

We then followed the pilgrim’s road through fields and up to the Refuge of Son Amer. The path wound through a pine forest on the slopes of Puig Ferner. Despite the overcast weather, this was the best part of the day. The path, covered in pine needles, was soft and fragrant underfoot, accompanied by birdsong and distant traffic noise.

As we descended towards Pollença, the rain became steady. Entering a thick pine forest, we were sheltered from the worst of it. The woodland cover, cool on a hot summer’s day, felt damp and eerie in the rain, reminiscent of a scene from The Hobbit.

The final stretch along a river and then a busy road into Pollença was both dangerous and unpleasant. Finally arriving in the central Placa of Pollença, we took shelter in a cafe. The staff’s stone-faced glances suggested our wet boots and rucksacks were unwelcome. After a coffee, we took the bus to Port de Pollença, where we received a warmer welcome at the seafront hotel of Sis Pins, popular with British tourists.

We spent the evening exploring the busy resort of Port de Pollença and had dinner at a pleasant Italian restaurant in the main square. The sunshine returned the next morning as we took the bus back to Palma. With our flight in the evening, we stored our rucksacks at Placa Espanya and wandered around the old quarter, visiting shoe shops and an art museum, Museo Fundacion Juan March, which housed impressive works by Picasso, Dali, and Miro.

Our next stop was the cathedral of Santa Maria in Palma, known as La Seu. This medieval structure with Modernista influences by Antonio Gaudi is a major tourist hotspot. We admired the more recent side chapel by contemporary Spanish artist Miquel Barceló, with its ceramic surface covered in fish and other creatures.

After visiting the cathedral, we wandered the old streets, enjoying ice cream and photographing Modernista houses. We concluded our tour with a drink in a leafy square before returning to Placa Espanya to collect our bags and head to the airport.

Our walking trip took us from quiet mountain villages to busy coastal resorts, from the views of the Tramuntana mountains to lively town squares and the sophisticated capital of Palma. Next time, I’d love to explore more of Mallorca’s hidden charms, especially the mountain paths and quiet villages that feel like the island’s true essence.

For those planning to walk the GR221 Dry Stone Route, I recommend the guidebook “Trekking through Mallorca – GR221 The Dry Stone Route” by Paddy Dillon, published by Cicerone. To get to Palma airport from the city center, the airport bus No 1 runs every 15 minutes from Placa d’Espanya, costing around €3 one way. Information on routes, timetables, and costs for Mallorca’s excellent regular bus service can be found on the Mallorca Transport website.