Alsace is one of the most beautiful wine-growing regions along the Rhine, known for its charming walled towns, narrow winding streets, and half-timbered houses. You can explore the region’s wines by following the Alsace Wine Route.

We took a trip with Lüftner Cruises that combined European history and Alsace wines, visiting a family-owned vineyard. Our coach passed rows of meticulously tended vines as we traveled from the walled town of Obernai to the village of Barr.

For over 2,000 years, the Rhine has been Europe’s most important waterway and trade route, with viniculture playing a significant role since the region was part of the Roman Empire. Alsace, located on France’s eastern border facing Germany, was once thought to be the source of the famous ‘Rhenish’ wines. The grand buildings and beautiful towns from this period reflect the region’s wealth from the wine trade.

In Barr, we met Jean-Daniel and Fabienne Héring, whose family has run their 10-hectare vineyard for five generations. The winery is in the foothills of the Vosges mountains, where the vineyards benefit from maximum sun exposure. Domaine Hering mainly produces white wines, perfect companions for Alsace’s culinary specialties. They grow Sylvaner, Auxerrois, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer grapes. They also create the sparkling Cremant d’Alsace, which rivals Champagne at half the price.

In the courtyard, we learned about the wine-making process, surrounded by the rustling vines on the Kirchberg slopes. The grapes are handpicked to maintain their quality, and the pressing is gentle to avoid crushing the seeds, which could affect the taste. The winery went completely organic in 2011, using natural fermentation without artificial yeast to preserve the terroir’s connection to the soil, nature, and human activity.

We descended to the chilly cellar, dating back to 1652, where the wines age for 6 to 10 months in oak and stainless steel tanks. In the tasting room, we enjoyed views of the family’s Grand Crus Riesling and Pinot Gris vines on Kirchberg hill. We tasted the wines with Kugelhopf, a local brioche with raisins, and learned about the importance of holding the glass by the stem, the significance of wine color, and the process of sniffing and swirling the wine to release its aromas.

Riesling is the most important wine in Alsace, but I particularly enjoyed the Sylvaner, a dry, light wine perfect for simple dishes and summer picnics. Sylvaner grapes, grown in northern Alsace, produce a refreshing wine with grapefruit and lime acidity. We liked it so much that we ordered it again on our cruise ship.

After the wine tasting, we continued our excursion to Obernai, a picturesque medieval town built on the wine trade’s wealth. We wandered the half-timbered streets and sat in the market square in front of the statue of St. Odile, Alsace’s patron saint. Soon, it was time to return to our cruise ship and continue our journey down the Rhine. We’ll definitely be looking for more Alsace wines when we get home.

The Alsace Wine Route is a 170km trail through the Vosges mountains’ foothills, from Marlenheim to Thann, featuring medieval castles, villages, and vineyards. You can stop at various vineyards to taste the wines and meet local growers. Wine festivals are held throughout the year in different towns and villages.

We enjoyed the wine tasting at Domaine Hering in Barr. For more information about their public tastings and events, visit their website. For details about Obernai, visit the Obernai Tourism website. Lüftner Cruises specializes in European river cruises, offering personal service and Austrian hospitality. We traveled on the Amadeus Princess on a 7-day Classical Rhine Cruise from Basel to Amsterdam, disembarking at Cologne.

Thanks to Lüftner Cruises for hosting our Rhine River Cruise, and to my husband Guy for accompanying me.