I had planned a summer break with my friend, but when they couldn’t make it, we rescheduled for October. Initially, I envisioned a relaxing stay at a country house hotel in Cornwall in August, enjoying wine on the terrace, walking cliff paths, and exploring stately homes and gardens. In October, we did all those things, except sitting on the terrace—it was too chilly for that!

Our adventure began with the sound of car wheels crunching on the gravel driveway of the Horn of Plenty, a charming hotel nestled in a narrow Devon lane with a stunning view over a wooded valley. We learned that the house was originally built for the manager of a local copper and tin mine, strategically placed so he could oversee his mine across the valley. Unfortunately, the bare spot on the forested slope was a result of mineral washing that had polluted the ground.

Arriving too early to check in, we decided to take advantage of the sunny weather for a country walk. We could have explored Dartmoor or walked from Tor to Tor, but I preferred a bit of sea air. We drove down to Looe, crossed the river bridge, and followed a narrow road that opened up to a long seaside promenade where we parked. My parents had recommended a cliff path walk to Polperro, with a tea shop stop halfway. I love cliff walks and cream teas even more.

The weather was perfect as we walked for an hour in brilliant sunshine, passing a small island and skirting the headland until we reached Talland Bay. There, the Talland Bay Beach Café awaited us, popular from spring to autumn for its sheltered beach and rock-pools. We could have continued to Polperro, but after enjoying tea and a teacake with clotted cream and jam in the autumn sunshine, we decided to head back to the car.

Returning to the Horn of Plenty, we settled into our lovely room and then drove to Tavistock for dinner at Brown’s Hotel restaurant. Although our hotel was known for its gastronomic offerings, we opted for a more modestly priced meal. Brown’s restaurant was delightful, with beautifully presented food, albeit in small portions, but we enjoyed complimentary bread, olives, and water from their own well.

The next morning, we savored a cooked breakfast at the Horn of Plenty, enjoying the fantastic valley view from the glazed extension. We then visited Antony, a National Trust property about half an hour away, overlooking the estuary towards Plymouth. The house and gardens were used as the setting for Tim Burton’s “Alice in Wonderland,” featuring huge yew hedges and topiary shapes.

We received a timed ticket to tour the house, still lived in by the Carew Pole family who built it in 1724. The National Trust owns the house, but the family retains ownership of the contents. It was fascinating to see family photographs, coffee table books, and magnificent furniture and portraits. Photography was allowed, which is rare for National Trust properties. In the library, we saw a portrait of Sir Alexander Carew next to the leather jerkin he wore, learning about his ill-fated role in the English Civil War.

Upstairs, we peeked into bedrooms with antique furniture and portraits, some still in daily use. Living in such a historic home must be a mixed blessing for the Carew Pole family. After exploring the house, we walked around the kitchen garden walls and noticed a toffee-like smell from a Cercidiphyllum japonicum tree. We ended our visit with tea and a shared scone at the tea shop, enjoying the last of the afternoon sunshine.

That evening, we sought out a country pub on Dartmoor for dinner. Our first choice, the Dartmoor Inn at Lydford, was closed, but we eventually found the Elephant’s Nest, where we enjoyed a great meal in quirky surroundings. After another night at the Horn of Plenty, we headed back to Bristol, feeling refreshed from our October weekend break.

The Horn of Plenty is a small luxury hotel with a gastronomic reputation. We stayed in a Deluxe Double room in the main house for £175 per night. The hotel also offers ground floor rooms in the Garden block. The dinner menu is fixed price, with a cheaper ‘Pot luck’ menu on Mondays and an a la carte menu in November. We found the pricing inflexible, so we chose to dine elsewhere, but it would be ideal for a special celebration. Note their 14-day cancellation policy to avoid charges.

Talland Bay Beach Café is located by the beach and coastal path, with private parking for patrons and a shop selling beach essentials. The Dartmoor Inn at Lydford looked nice but was closed when we wanted to eat there. The Elephant’s Nest at Horndon is a country pub with a large garden, where we enjoyed an interesting meal. Antony, near Torpoint in Cornwall, is a beautiful 18th-century mansion with landscaped grounds and topiary gardens, featured in “Alice in Wonderland.”