In February, despite the cold and the threat of snow in Bristol, we headed to Wales for a weekend on the Gower to celebrate my husband’s birthday with the family. My oldest son had just started university in Swansea, which is the gateway to the Gower Peninsula in South Wales. He was eager to surf, although I had my doubts given the chilly weather. The Gower is known for its wide sandy beaches, and Swansea University is famously the closest university to a beach, rivaled only by some in sunny California.

We drove down on Friday night, making good time across the Severn Bridge, along the motorway, and through Swansea to Mumbles, a charming village where Swansea ends and the Gower begins. We picked up the keys to our holiday house from Home from Home, specialists in Gower cottages. They have friendly staff who know the area well and can recommend the best properties. Following detailed instructions, we navigated the windy roads to Langland and found our way to Maryland, our weekend home.

Maryland was newer than I expected for a holiday cottage, but it made up for its lack of old-world charm with stylish interiors and plenty of space for our family. The open-plan downstairs area included a sitting area, kitchen, and dining area with a large round table and a welcoming vase of tulips. French doors led to an enclosed garden with patio furniture, perfect for summer play.

The house is conveniently located behind the Langland Golf Course, which overlooks both Langland and Caswell Bays, popular surfing spots. A short walk through the golf course leads to the clifftop coastal path, offering stunning views of Caswell Bay and access to its sandy beach and rock pools. Another path from the house skirts the golf course and leads to Langland Bay, with its promenade, tropical palms, and retro beach huts.

Maryland is spacious, with four good-sized bedrooms, three upstairs and one on the ground floor, plus a cozy upstairs sitting area with squashy sofas and a gas fire. Each bedroom has a modern en suite bathroom, much to the delight of our teenagers. The downstairs bedroom, ideal for those who avoid stairs, also has an adjoining bathroom. My parents, who joined us for the weekend, appreciated the modern comforts and constant warmth, a stark contrast to our draughty 100-year-old home. There’s also a TV room under the stairs, perfect for watching rugby on a rainy Saturday.

The visitors’ book revealed that Maryland was built in 2005 and has hosted families from the USA, New Zealand, and various parts of the UK. It has seen landmark birthdays, wedding preparations, and many return visits. Some guests even mentioned a ghost, which we hoped was a joke!

Saturday brought rain instead of the forecasted snow, so we ventured across the golf course to the headland. However, the steep, slippery path proved too much for my parents, so we drove to Langland Bay instead. We settled into the Langland Brasserie by the car park, enjoying the view of the beach from our table by the window. In summer, the terrace would be perfect for people-watching, but it was cozy inside with coffee and a restaurant area.

I had researched local pubs for our evening meal, but the heavy rain deterred us from going out again. Instead, we stocked up on food in Mumbles and explored the town. I visited boutiques, gift shops, and the ruined Oystermouth Castle, and noted Joe’s Italian Ice Cream Parlour on the seafront. I also stopped by the Love Spoon Gallery, recalling a previous visit when we bought a love spoon that still hangs in our bedroom.

Sunday’s weather cleared, allowing us to enjoy a bracing walk down the cliff path to Caswell. We watched the waves and kicked around in the surf, loving the fresh winter air. We continued along the coastal path to Langland Bay, where we watched surfers from the cliff-top benches. My son decided against surfing that day, preferring the warmth of Maryland, but assured me his wetsuit keeps him warm during his regular surf outings with the university club.

As we walked back, I imagined the summer crowds and traffic jams, but also the family picnics, sandcastles, and ice creams. Winter on the Gower has its own charm, with bracing air and wide horizons. I recommend enjoying the beaches in winter and returning for a summer surf lesson when the sun is shining.