We arrived at Rifugio Bonatti the night before, nearing the end of our 2012 walk on the Tour de Mont Blanc. Situated at over 2000 meters, this refuge felt like a boutique hostel, perched high above the Val Ferret and the village of La Vachey. Despite its remote location with no visible road access, I was impressed by the comfort it offered. Our twin bedroom featured pine beds, embroidered linen at the window, and handwoven woolen curtains with pretty woven bows. The refuge, named after the famous Italian climber Walter Bonatti, had walls adorned with black and white photos of him climbing in the Alps, along with vintage posters of climbing heroes from the 1950s and 60s.

Dinner at the refuge was a communal affair. We sat at long tables with other guests in a charming dining room with traditional wooden beams and a beautiful old blue and white tiled stove. The meal was simple yet delightful, starting with a salad accompanied by local cheeses, followed by a mini-quiche with carrots and tiny new potatoes, and ending with a dessert of blancmange topped with bitter chocolate sauce and shortbread biscuits shaped into the Refuge Bonatti motif.

During dinner, we chatted with a Japanese couple who had just run the TMB Ultra-marathon, each carrying only 3-4 kg rucksacks. This event is for elite endurance runners, and I recalled a previous year in Chamonix where we watched the exhausted runners finish their race as we enjoyed a cold beer at a cafe.

Julia and I also spent dinner planning our route for the following year to complete the TMB. We discussed which paths to take, the refuges to stay in, and speculated on where we might encounter snow even in summer. As the sun set, it bathed Mont Blanc in a glowing orange, prompting many guests to step outside for photos. Once the sun dipped behind the ridge, the air turned cold.

The next morning, we debated between two paths: the main valley path, which seemed easier, and an alternative over the ridge that joined the main route above Courmayeur. We chose the easier main path, eager to reach Courmayeur in time to buy bus tickets for the next day’s journey through the Mont Blanc tunnel to Chamonix.

Our walk that day was along an undulating path with the Mont de la Saxe ridge to our left and stunning views of Mont Blanc to our right. The weather was perfect, making for easy walking and plenty of photo opportunities. By early afternoon, we reached a flat grassy viewpoint above Refugio Georgio Bertone, where we enjoyed a late lunch with a fabulous view over the valley. Our peaceful spot soon filled with groups of Italians who had climbed up from Courmayeur, making it a popular day hike destination.

Feeling our remote mountain experience was ending, we began our descent to Courmayeur. The path was steep and shaded, and I was thankful for my walking poles to support my knees. We eventually reached a residential road and walked into Courmayeur, finding our hotel, Bouton d’Or. Despite our tiredness, we remembered to take our traditional “end of the TMB photo.”

After dropping off our packs, we bought bus tickets for the next day’s journey back to Chamonix. The following morning, we noticed crowds gathering in the town center for the start of another ultra-marathon, the Tor des Geants, around the Aosta valley. We watched the lean, tanned runners preparing and then headed to the bus station for our trip back to Chamonix and home.

Chamonix felt familiar, with its geranium-filled window boxes, views of Mont Blanc, and the statue of climbers Balmat and Saussure pointing to the summit. We had started there in 2011, on the second leg of our Tour de Mont Blanc from La Flegere to Champex Lac. We planned to return in September 2013 to complete the final leg from Courmayeur to Chamonix Les Houches.

The Tour de Mont Blanc can be done in 12 days, but I preferred our leisurely four-year approach. Whether you choose to complete it in one go or spread it out, Mont Blanc is always a sight to behold!