Dartmoor is a place that demands respect, with its stunning landscapes and unpredictable weather. Leaving snowy Bristol behind, we saw green fields by the time we reached Tavistock, and even a bit of blue sky. But as we drove onto the moor, the mist descended, and the fields were blanketed in snow.

“Don’t worry if we get stuck,” Guy said reassuringly. “I’ve got supplies in the back and know a great bunkhouse nearby.” But with a weekend at the Prince Hall Hotel ahead, I had no plans of getting stranded. Soon, we were driving up the hotel’s long, tree-lined driveway, our wheels crunching on the snow.

Inside, the owner, Fi, welcomed us warmly and handed us a large, old-fashioned key to our room, named Houndstor. Each of the eight uniquely designed rooms in the hotel is named after the Tors or granite outcrops scattered across Dartmoor. The hotel felt more like a friend’s cozy country house than an impersonal business hotel.

Our spacious bedroom had sash windows overlooking the snowy Dartmoor wilderness, with a small stone bridge over the river Dart in the distance. The room featured a cherry-wood sleigh bed, an antique Edwardian wardrobe, and a plush blue velvet sofa. The black stone fireplace with green marble-painted panels had two stag’s head bookends on the mantelpiece, holding a selection of adventure-themed books. The room’s creamy yellow color scheme, blue carpet, and contemporary touches in the decor made it feel welcoming. From the bed, we could see the moor, with only a solitary light twinkling in the distance at night.

The small bathroom, with classic white and blue tiles, had a shower tucked to one side. I appreciated the large bottles of Gilchrist and Soames toiletries, which felt more sustainable than miniature plastic bottles. A sign warned that the water, fed from a spring, might have low pressure at times.

The hotel, built in the 18th century as a judge’s home, has a rich history. It has served various purposes over the years, including a prison for French prisoners of war, a stable for the Prince of Wales’s racehorses, and now a hotel. Fi and her husband Chris took over the hotel five years ago, transforming it room by room into a stylish yet relaxed country house. Fi, a former film producer, and Chris, a local kitchen-fitter turned chef, make a perfect team. Chris maintains a kitchen garden, rears pigs for the hotel’s ham and bacon, and even built a cozy Shepherd’s hut on the property.

We settled into the cozy terracotta sitting room, enjoying a cappuccino by the fire. The room’s eclectic country chic decor included tapestry-covered wing chairs and Moroccan-inspired touches. Paintings of local landscapes and wildflowers added to the cheerful atmosphere.

The hotel is dog-friendly, and many guests had brought their pets. Fi and Chris’s golden retriever Portia and cocker spaniels Polo and CeCe were delightful company. Dogs are welcomed with a mat, bowl, and treat, and are allowed in most areas of the hotel.

After a delicious lunch, I went Nordic Walking with Elaine Sylvester, a Dartmoor Guide. We met at Two Bridges and walked up to Crockern Tor, learning the finer points of Nordic Walking along the way. The panoramic view from the Tor was breathtaking, and we enjoyed homemade lemon cakes back at the car park.

Back at the hotel, we reviewed the dinner menu in the sitting room. Fi and Chris have built a reputation for fine dining, with a menu that changes daily and features fresh, local ingredients. Our meal was delicious, with dishes like Guinea Fowl on wild mushroom risotto and West Country Venison with winter greens.

The dining room, with its lilac grey walls and colorful artwork, was inviting. The friendly, attentive service and beautifully presented food made for a memorable dining experience. The hotel also hosts intimate weddings, with the dining room serving as the ceremony space.

After a restful night, we enjoyed a cooked breakfast and set off to explore the moor. The hotel sells fishing licenses for the River Dart and can arrange wildlife walks with local guides. Our stay at Prince Hall Hotel was too short to enjoy everything Dartmoor has to offer, but it was the perfect place to unwind and enjoy the fresh air and beautiful scenery.