Savoring Gothenburg: A Culinary Journey Through Seven Swedish Delicacies
Gothenburg is renowned as a gourmet destination, offering a variety of culinary delights from fresh seafood and traditional Swedish dishes to cozy cafes perfect for enjoying a hot chocolate or a fika break with strong coffee and a cinnamon bun. Here are some Swedish flavors you might enjoy in Gothenburg and West Sweden:
Herring has been a staple for fishing communities along the West Coast of Sweden. Fishermen would watch for the abundant shoals off the coast and send boats to catch the herring. This fish was then smoked, pickled, or salted to sustain families through the harsh winters. Many coastal towns had factories and canneries that packed and preserved herring, providing local employment.
In Gothenburg, especially in winter, you’ll find herring served in various ways with different spices and sauces. Each family has its own recipe passed down through generations. At hotel breakfasts and buffets, you might notice large bowls of different styles of herring. Look for them at the Feskekörka fish market in Gothenburg. We enjoyed a fish and herring platter with four types of herring at Restaurant Gabriel in the Feskekörka.
During special occasions like Easter, Christmas, and summer crayfish parties, Swedes often bring out Snaps, an aquavit that can be flavored with fruits or enjoyed plain. O.P. Anderson is a popular brand, and Snaps pairs well with herring, cutting through its rich, oily flavor. If you’re not a big drinker, a sip will warm you up. A true Swede will knock back the Snaps with a hearty Viking toast, Skol!
We visited Gothenburg in December, the perfect time to try ultra-fresh oysters from the West Coast of Sweden. There are many excellent seafood restaurants in the city. We tried our oysters at Restaurant Gabriel in the Feskekörka Fish Market. The owner, Johan Malm, was the World Champion Oyster Opener in 2010. He prefers serving oysters naturally with just a squeeze of lemon to enhance their metallic sea flavor. The trick is to chew them properly to get the full flavor.
In December and leading up to Christmas, many hotels and restaurants serve the Julbord or Christmas table, a buffet featuring traditional Swedish foods. The emphasis is on pickled and preserved items like herring, smoked salmon, cured meats, and stuffed eggs. Historically, Swedish families would keep a pig and slaughter it near Christmas. The Julbord can be enjoyed over an extended lunch or dinner, especially popular on weekends for families and friends. We enjoyed the spread at our hotel, Elite Plaza, served in the Swea Hof restaurant. Other recommended places for Julbord include Sjömagasinet at the mouth of Gothenburg harbor and Salt & Sill, 40km north of Gothenburg.
For a budget-friendly classic Swedish fish dish, visit Magasinsgatan around lunchtime on a weekday. The Strömmingsluckan herring cart serves traditional fried herring with creamy mashed potatoes and lingonberry sauce. The owner, Thomas, mentioned that while street food is common in East Sweden, it’s less so in the West, prompting them to open this cart.
Swedes are great coffee drinkers, and you’ll notice the aroma of freshly brewed coffee wafting from cafes in alleyways and courtyards. Fika, a coffee break with friends, often includes a cake or traditional cinnamon bun. The cinnamon buns are enormous swirls of sugary-spicy sweetness, reputedly invented at Cafe Husaren in Haga. In Nordstaden, near the port, there’s Cafe Kronhuset in a courtyard next to Gothenburg’s oldest building. Cafe Da Matteo, with branches in Magasinsgatan and Victoria Passagen, is a local favorite. In Haga, you’ll find many Fika spots like Cafe Kringlan and Le Petit Cafe.
Gothenburg is also known as a gourmet destination, recently crowned the Culinary Capital of Sweden with five Michelin star restaurants. We dined at Basement, where I met Head Chef Camilla Parkner. Michelin star restaurants often offer more affordable lunchtime or pre-theatre menus. Other Michelin star restaurants in Gothenburg include 28+, Kock & Vin, Fond, and Thörnströms.
For sightseeing, consider getting the Gothenburg City Card, which provides access to major attractions and public transport. We stayed at the Elite Plaza Hotel, conveniently located within walking distance of many sights. We flew to Gothenburg from London Heathrow with Scandinavian Airlines, which offers two flights a day to Gothenburg’s Landvetter airport, a 30-minute taxi or bus ride from the city.