Savoring Heidelberg: A Culinary Journey Through the Best Eats in Germany’s Historic Gem
The food in Heidelberg was hearty and comforting, perfect for our winter weekend getaway. We enjoyed a delicious dinner of veal and vegetables boiled in broth with dumplings, and crispy Kartoffelpuffer potato fritters with apple sauce from the Christmas market. Seasonal treats like Zimsterne cinnamon star biscuits were a delight, and we savored kaffee und kuchen in the cozy cafes of the Old Town, along with chocolates and candies from shop windows.
Before diving into the sweets, we sampled typical German dishes at Goldener Hecht, a hotel and restaurant in the heart of the Alstadt. I had roast goose with dumplings and red cabbage, a traditional Christmas Eve dish in Germany. Guy enjoyed boiled veal with vegetables in a copper pan of broth, served with apple sauce and crispy fried potatoes. Another favorite of Guy’s was Gulyassuppe, a hearty goulash made with beef, tomato, and paprika, served with crusty bread.
For dining recommendations, Goldener Hecht is located at Steingasse 2 by the Old Bridge. Other notable spots include Hackteufel (Steingasse 7), Schnitzelbank (Bauamtsgasse 7), and Zum Güldenen Schaf (Hauptstrasse 115). Most beerhouses in Heidelberg serve both food and the famous German beer, offering a lively atmosphere. In summer, you can enjoy the biergarten experience, where you’ll be served at the table by a waitress in a traditional dirndl.
We had a beer and supper at Zum Roten Ochsen (Red Ox Inn), a traditional student pub at Hauptstraße 217. Despite its touristy reputation, we found friendly service and good food. The dark wood paneling, cheerful red check tablecloths, and old photos of Heidelberg students added to the charm. Zum Seppl (Hauptstrasse 213) and Vetters (Steingasse 9) are also worth a visit for their convivial pub atmosphere.
The German Christmas markets are a highlight, focusing on eating, drinking, and socializing rather than just shopping. Traditional foods to try include wurst (long German sausage) in bread with ketchup and mustard, and Kartoffelpuffer (potato fritters) with apple or garlic sauce. Other market treats include Schnaufnudel (potato pasta with fried cabbage) and bread rolls filled with slow-roasted pork. The sweet smell of Glühwein and the buzz of conversation create a festive atmosphere. You can keep the Glühwein mug as a souvenir or return it for a deposit refund. For something stronger, try Fuerzangenboule, mulled wine with rum-soaked sugar.
Heidelberg’s Old Town is filled with cozy cafes, perfect for a kaffee und kuchen break. Café Knösel, near the Church of the Holy Spirit, offers a traditional atmosphere and delicious cakes like Black Forest Gateaux. The side room filled with old photos of Heidelberg students adds to the charm. Café Gundel is another favorite, known for its seasonal baked goods and the Heidelberger Kurfürstenkugel, a ball-shaped cake with nougat filling, commemorating Prince Elector Frederik V and Princess Elizabeth Stuart.
For chocolates, visit Knösel (Haspelgasse 16) for the famous Students Kiss truffles, a sweet gift with a romantic backstory. The Heidelberg Bonbon Manufaktur (Steingasse 5) is great for families, offering handmade candies and lollipops. For more sophisticated chocolates, Pralinmanufaktur Vorbach (Hauptstrasse 211) sells fresh handmade truffles.
Heidelberg offers a delightful culinary experience, from hearty German dishes to sweet treats. Enjoy exploring the cobbled streets and discovering your own favorite spots.