Copenhagen is known for its gourmet restaurants, but meeting top Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen at his flagship restaurant Kiin Kiin, the only Thai restaurant in the world with a Michelin star, is truly special. As I enjoyed champagne and a variety of delicious Thai canapes, Henrik shared his passion for Thai cuisine and his ambitious plan to bring it back to Thailand.

Henrik opened Kiin Kiin in September 2006 in Nørrebro, a once-dodgy area of Copenhagen now likened to Soho. They took a risk by modernizing Thai cooking, aiming to elevate it beyond the typical cheap restaurant fare. Henrik, who spent four years as a chef in Thailand, wanted to use high-quality produce and innovative techniques to create a higher level of Thai cuisine.

Henrik’s love for Thai food began during a holiday in Thailand in 2000, where he had his first Thai meal at a beach restaurant. The explosion of flavors in a Tom Kha soup, a classic Thai dish with coconut milk, captivated him. This experience led him to cook in various parts of Thailand for four years.

One of the first dishes on Kiin Kiin’s menu was a frozen red curry served with lobster salad. They use fresh herbs and spices grown by a Thai gardener in Denmark, including young, green coriander seeds that burst with flavor. Henrik’s favorite dish is this innovative take on a classic.

Thai desserts are also a highlight at Kiin Kiin. The favorite in April is Khao Niaow Ma Muang, sticky rice with fresh Thai mangoes and homemade coconut milk. Another popular dessert is Pandan ice cream, made from the aromatic Pandan leaf and served with roasted coconut and Pandan juice. They also make a special tea from the Pandan leaf, enhanced with lemongrass.

Kiin Kiin uses Thai fragrances like lemongrass and five spice to create sensory experiences. The restaurant’s furniture, designed by three Thai designers from Mango Tree, adds to the authentic atmosphere.

Initially, Henrik was nervous about attracting customers to Kiin Kiin, but the restaurant’s success exceeded expectations. They even started selling classic Thai dishes like red and green curries and stir fries from the back door, which became very popular. This led to the opening of another restaurant, Rice Market, offering Thai street food in an open-plan kitchen near Nørreport station.

Henrik also opened a Chinese restaurant called Dim Sum, where three Chinese chefs make homemade Dim Sum. The restaurant is named simply after the dish they specialize in.

Henrik’s culinary ventures extend beyond Copenhagen. He runs a restaurant in a 6+ star Kempinski hotel, offering a similar menu to Kiin Kiin. Despite the challenges of being a foreigner cooking Thai food, Henrik enjoys the fresh, local produce and the support of a skilled team.

Henrik’s dedication to his craft is evident in his personal life as well. Every Friday, he takes his father to lunch at Schoenneman, a place known for its homemade rye bread and pickled herrings, offering a taste of traditional Danish cuisine.

Henrik’s commitment to service is clear as he greets guests, tops up drinks, and chats with them in the downstairs lounge at Kiin Kiin. He has embraced the Thai culture of hospitality, ensuring every visitor feels like an honored guest.

Henrik also showed me a room downstairs, discovered after a police raid revealed a drug store beneath his premises. Now, it’s styled like an Opium den, offering a special menu with wine pairings.

Next door, Henrik’s affordable curry joint, Aroiidee, started as a way to avoid wasting food from Kiin Kiin. Its popularity led to plans for more locations around the city.

Henrik is also dedicated to giving back to the community. He supports the Red Cross by selling 2000 curries annually on the streets of Copenhagen and organizes a charity gourmet picnic with other Michelin Star chefs to raise money for the homeless.

Inspired by a Danish soldier, Henrik cooked Christmas dinner for Danish troops in Kabul. Although he missed meeting Gordon Ramsay, who was cooking for British troops nearby, the experience was memorable.

Henrik’s innovative spirit continues in his Aroiidee kitchen, where he experiments with new techniques like flavoring chicken from the inside by feeding them ginger. His mission to reinvent modern Thai cooking in Bangkok promises exciting developments ahead.