Friday night, we crossed the Severn Bridge, leaving behind a busy week in Bristol for a weekend at the beautiful beaches of the Gower Peninsula and the nostalgic seaside town of Mumbles. This part of South Wales is familiar to me, as I recently visited Swansea to follow Dylan Thomas’s trail and see my son at Swansea University. This time, I wanted to explore more of Mumbles, known for its love spoons and Welsh-Italian ice cream, and enjoy my favorite activities of walking and being by the sea.

Mumbles is a charming seaside town that thrived in the early 20th century when seaside trips were a summer highlight for families. The railway and steam trains from Swansea, starting in 1877, made Mumbles a popular weekend and holiday destination. Visitors enjoyed ice cream, tea, walks along the promenade to the pier, and the beaches of the Gower Peninsula.

Our weekend base was Promenade View, a luxury holiday house perfectly situated on the seafront with views of Swansea Bay. From our first-floor bedroom, we watched walkers and cyclists on the promenade path that stretches from Swansea to Mumbles Pier. In front of the house, children played on a pebble beach, and sailing boats were parked along the promenade. Although the original train line no longer exists, a tourist train runs from Blackpill Lido to Mumbles.

We strolled past Verdi’s Italian Cafe, where triathlon participants relaxed in the sunshine. Fishermen sat with their rods, and the main road’s restaurants and cafes gave way to houses with rocky cliffs behind them. At low tide, seagulls hopped between rock pools as we reached Mumbles Pier. The newly restored pier featured hanging baskets, the Beach Hut Cafe serving fish and chips, a small boating pool for children, and the sounds of slot machines. The pier entrance wasn’t busy, but we discovered a secret sandy beach accessible by steps beside the pier.

Our Promenade View holiday home was recently renovated by owner Kim Davies, who grew up in Swansea. The house features light, soft colors with a seaside theme, personal touches, and hotel-like amenities. Kim plans to run it as a boutique B&B, with each room having an en suite bathroom, fragrant toiletries, limestone tiling, oak vanity stands, and walk-in rain showers.

Our master bedroom had a wooden floor, soft green Welsh wool throws, and a cozy rug. With plantation shutters open, we enjoyed views of Swansea Bay from the picture window. The second-floor bedrooms were similarly furnished in light, muted colors. The front double bedroom had views over Swansea Bay, decorated in dove grey with Welsh dragon motif cushions. The third bedroom, set up as a double or twin, had a velux window with views over the trees and rooftops. All bedrooms had flat-screen TVs, kettles, hairdryers, full-length mirrors, and thoughtful conveniences.

Downstairs, the elegant sitting room had plantation shutters, a wooden floor with a pale striped rug, and cream linen sofas with striped silk and shaggy sheepskin cushions. A cream leather Barcelona chair with knitted throws and seaside touches like polished pebbles, pottery lighthouse lamps, and rope-covered doorstops added charm. The kitchen and dining room were combined into a large area with a painted dining table, flowers, and a welcome pack of local goodies. The well-equipped kitchen and sunny patio were perfect for coffee breaks. Personal touches included old prints of an Italian town and a model sailing boat from Kim’s sister.

For three years, I planned to walk the coastal path around the Gower Peninsula, known for its stunning beaches. With my son now finished at university, this weekend was my chance. On Saturday morning, we set off from Promenade View, wearing walking boots and sun cream. The path took us past Mumbles Pier, up steps for a view of the lighthouse, and around the headland to Bracelet Bay, where the “Under Milkwood” classic vehicle road run was gathering. We met two gentlemen, Tel and Del, with vintage motorbikes, and continued to Limeslade Bay.

At Fortes ice cream parlour, we enjoyed blackcurrant and caramel ice cream made on the premises. The path, newly paved in concrete, cut through heathland above the old path. We passed cyclists and reached Langland Bay, popular with families and surfers. The beach had retro green and white beach huts, and families enjoyed the good weather. Langland Brasserie, the smartest beach cafe, was a familiar spot from a previous visit.

The path became wilder after Langland Bay, with pock-marked rocks and heathland. A lone paddleboarder paralleled our course. The day turned overcast as we approached Caswell Bay, a more traditional beach with candy floss and burgers. We skipped lunch at the Surfside Cafe due to the crowds and continued through woodland to Pwll du Bay, a remote National Trust beach accessible only by footpaths. The area, once a limestone quarry, had a stream and a small pool.

We climbed a steep path through a field of cows to Pennard, where we caught a bus back to Mumbles. Information leaflets in the cottage provided details about walks and bus services. On Sunday, we visited Llangennith, a surfer’s favorite beach. The beach, stretching between Rhossilli and Broughton Bay, was busy with surfers despite the flat water. We enjoyed the sense of freedom and space on the unspoilt beach.

By lunchtime, we headed back to Mumbles and then to Bristol, refreshed by the coastal walking and sea breeze. Next time, I hope to continue exploring the Gower Peninsula’s beaches, including Three Cliffs Bay, Oxwich, and Rhossili. Until then, I’ll cherish the memories of the wind in my hair and the luxurious Promenade View in Mumbles.

Promenade View can be booked through HomefromHome.com. The house has three en suite bedrooms, sleeps up to six people, and offers off-street parking and a small courtyard garden. It is well-equipped with a washing machine, dishwasher, dryer, internet, games, and local information. Rental prices range from £535 (low season) to £1085 (high season) per week. For more information about the area, visit the Visit Swansea Bay, Mumbles and Gower website or the Visit Wales website.