Exploring Tredegar, Wales: Tracing the Legacy of Aneurin Bevan, Architect of the NHS
In South Wales, we explored the rich industrial heritage of Tredegar, a small town with a big history. This town, born from iron and coal mining in “The Valleys,” has been home to some notable figures who fought for better working conditions. We traced the steps of Aneurin Bevan, who grew up in Tredegar and later, as Minister of Health in 1945, established the National Health Service, providing free healthcare for all. Here are the stories and characters we discovered in Tredegar, from Chartists to Iron Masters to Nye Bevan, the ‘father of the NHS.’
Tredegar’s recent history is marked by social reformer and politician Nye Bevan, who was born in the town and grew up in a family of ten children. At 14, he left school to work at Tŷ Trist Colliery but educated himself through the library at the Tredegar Workman’s Hall. Despite a speech impediment, Bevan practiced speeches on long walks across the nearby moors at Trefil, overcoming his challenge.
The Tredegar Iron and Coal Company dominated employment in the town, and Bevan realized that political power was necessary to improve working conditions. He joined a socialist discussion group called the Query Club, became a union representative, and was elected to the District and County councils before winning the Ebbw Vale Parliamentary seat for Labour. As Minister for Health after World War II, Bevan led the formation of the NHS, inspired by a local healthcare model in Tredegar.
Bevan, known for his powerful oratory, often challenged wealth and privilege. He famously said, “When I listen to the cacophony of harsh voices trying to intimidate, I close my eyes and listen to the silent voices of the poor.” He was voted the top hero in a list of 100 Welsh heroes.
We began our exploration at Bedwellty House, a Grade II listed mansion with a 26-acre Victorian garden. Built in 1822, it was the home of Samuel Homfray, an Ironmaster and co-owner of the Tredegar Ironworks. After a £5M renovation in 2011, the mansion now serves as an education center, council offices, wedding venue, and cafe, and is free to visit. Bevan attended meetings in the council chamber here after being elected to the Tredegar Urban District Council in 1922.
In the surrounding gardens of Bedwellty Park, we enjoyed the ornamental grotto, icehouse, rose garden, water cascade, and walks among specimen trees. A notable feature is the enormous block of coal, originally intended for the Great Exhibition of 1851 but too heavy to transport.
The Orchid Tea Room, a local favorite for lunch, is a glazed extension built on the site of the original Orchid House. We enjoyed a Buck Rarebit, a traditional Welsh Rarebit topped with a poached egg. The cafe offers drinks, cakes, and light lunch dishes, with outdoor seating available in fine weather.
Bedwellty House is the starting point for the Aneurin Bevan Trail, which highlights places around town associated with Bevan. Iron plaques around town show a map of Tredegar with points of interest. A leaflet of the trail is available at the town’s heritage center or can be downloaded online.
We visited the Workman’s Hall and library, where Bevan educated himself, and walked to the town clock, a 72-foot high cast iron structure placed in the town square in 1859. The former Market Square, now known as “The Circle,” includes notable buildings like the offices of the Tredegar Medical Aid Society at No 10 The Circle.
Other points of interest on the town trail include the site of the Ty Trist Colliery, where Bevan began work at 14, and his mother’s home in Queen Street, which he used as a base for constituency work. The Tredegar Town Museum, located in the library, houses artifacts and information from Tredegar’s history.
The former offices of the Tredegar Medical Aid Society at No 10 The Circle have been renovated into a small heritage center. Displays explain how the society provided subscription-based medical care for local workers, with interactive audio and video exhibits. The society’s success inspired Bevan’s model for the NHS.
We also explored the Silver Statues trail, featuring metal silhouettes of notable figures from Tredegar’s history. We sat beside the figures of Nye Bevan and Walter Conway, who led the Tredegar Medical Aid Society to thrive, providing free medical services to 20,000 locals.
In Bedwellty Park, we found the statue of Samuel Homfrey, an Iron Master who co-founded the Tredegar Ironworks. The park also features statues of Anne Prosser and Mary Jones, young girls who worked in the mines in the 1800s. Child labor was common, and harsh working conditions were highlighted in an 1841 investigation, leading to a law prohibiting the employment of children under 10 in mines.
A short drive from Tredegar, we visited the Aneurin Bevan Memorial Stones, where Bevan gave open-air speeches. The central stone represents Bevan, with three others pointing to the towns of his constituency. Numerous walking and cycling trails, including the Sirhowy Valley Walk, start here.
For lunch, we enjoyed the Orchid House tea room at Bedwellty House, and for dinner, we dined at the Tredegar Arms Hotel and Restaurant, which serves excellent pub fare. The hotel, once a coach house for the Tredegar Ironworks, offers luxury en-suite bedrooms and suites.
We also visited the village of Trefil, where Bevan practiced his speeches. With our guide, we walked to the Chartists Cave, a meeting point for the Chartist movement, which fought for democratic rights for working men. The cave was used to hide weapons made secretly at the ironworks.
Our walk took us to the high point overlooking the Dyffryn Valley, where Bevan’s ashes were scattered. We continued through the old Trefil quarry, now abandoned, and returned via the access road for the new quarry.
If you visit Trefil, stop at the Top House Bar, a community pub serving drinks and home-cooked food. It was a favorite spot of Bevan, who loved to walk locally on the moors.
Near Tredegar, we visited the Guardian sculpture, commemorating the 50th anniversary of the Six Bells mining disaster. The names of 45 miners who died in the 1960 disaster are cut into the metal panels around the plinth of the statue.
We stayed at Roundhouse Farm near Nantyglo, about 15 minutes from Tredegar. The farm includes one of the Round Towers, built by local iron masters as a place of refuge during worker riots. The cottages at Roundhouse Farm are well-equipped and offer a cozy stay with contemporary furnishings.
For more information on Tredegar and Southern Wales, visit the Southern Wales and Visit Monmouthshire websites. Follow their social media feeds for more inspiration.