The berries at the farmer’s markets in Graz were plump and juicy, mingling with fresh green beans, bunches of sunflowers, and bottles of dark green pumpkin oil. With a mild southern climate where fruit, vegetables, and vineyards thrive, this capital of Styria in Austria is a haven for culinary delights.

During our weekend in Graz, we discovered modern cooking with a light touch, showcasing Styrian heritage and top-quality produce. Graz’s food scene is all about fresh, local ingredients, earning it the title of Austria’s ‘Capital of Delights’. Here are some of the best restaurants in Graz for food lovers:

When in Graz, you’ll want to climb up the Schlossberg, the hill overlooking the old city with its famous clocktower. This clocktower is one of the few parts of the fortress that remains after Napoleon ordered its demolition. After his victory over the Hapsburgs in 1809, it became the symbol of Graz.

Just above the clocktower, you’ll find Aiola Upstairs, a restaurant and café in a modern glass box. Their windows slide back to create an outdoor terrace in good weather. The menu offers a fresh and modern take on Austrian produce and cuisine. We enjoyed the Styrian Caesar salad, a pumpernickel and cheese tart, and a bowl of gazpacho, all washed down with a fresh berry cordial while enjoying views over the old town.

Another great spot for coffee or lunch with a view is Freiblick Tagescafé, located on the 6th floor of the biggest department store in Graz, Kastner and Ohler. There’s an indoor café with glass walls, but in good weather, the outdoor terrace is the place to be. From coffee and cakes to early evening aperitifs, there’s always a fabulous view of the clocktower on the Schlossberg and the red rooftops of Graz’s historic center. They even have a glass-sided platform for the perfect Graz selfie with the clocktower in the background.

Chocolates make for a great souvenir, and in Graz, you’ll find a small but perfectly formed shop for all your chocolate needs at Linzbichler, tucked in the shadow of the Franciscan monastery. Graz’s special chocolate is the Schlossbergkugel, a chocolate ball with truffle filling, packaged in a box that reminds you of the clocktower on the Schlossberg. Even if you do nothing else, pop in to buy a single Schlossbergkugel to sweeten your sightseeing. The shop is filled with artisan chocolate bars, gift boxes, and seasonal treats.

Culture lovers may have heard of the famous Styriarte festival, a celebration of classical music and the arts that takes place in Graz during June and July. We attended a performance of La Margarita, a baroque opera and horse ballet in the beautiful gardens of Schloss Schielleiten. For foodies, it’s a delightful combination of delicious food and entertainment. We sipped Styrian cider as an aperitif before heading into the marquee restaurant for a pre-performance dinner of smoked char and caviar, fillet of pork, and a white chocolate and raspberry dessert. In the gardens by the ornamental pond, there was a wine tasting area with five different Styrian wines to try, accompanied by local cheese and Volcano ham.

Graz’s creative quarter, across the river from the old town, is home to the Friendly Alien, the nickname for the Kunsthaus Graz museum of contemporary art. The adjoining Kunsthaus café has a friendly, youthful feel and is a great choice for vegetarians and vegans. Open for breakfast, brunch, and throughout the day until late, it serves burgers, salads, and bistro dishes in an airy industrial-style space. I enjoyed a Friendly Slow Food salad with falafel and bulgar wheat.

Eis Greisler, a small ice cream parlour on Sporgasse, caught my attention with its queue. This street follows the line of an old Roman road. If you’re sightseeing on Herrengasse or admiring the pastel stucco buildings around Hauptplatz, you’re only a short stroll away from their delicious ice creams made with fresh ingredients and organic milk from family farms. I chose the poppy seed flavor, a must-try in Graz, along with pumpkin seed oil flavor and more usual fruit flavors.

The farmer’s markets in Graz are a feast for the senses, with glistening red currants and glossy cherries tempting you to add them to your basket of crusty country bread and local cheeses for a picnic. With 800 farms within the city, the markets are the place to find local food. Markets are held daily around Graz, with the best known at Kaiser Josef Platz and Lendplatz. You’ll find delicious fruit juices, smoked sausages, and garden flowers.

Along Herrengasse and around the old town, you’ll spot archways leading to courtyards that once housed animals. Now, these courtyards are home to boutiques, cafés, and some of the top restaurants in Graz. We enjoyed a delightful aperitif of sparkling wine, summer berries, and sorbet at one such café. The pedestrianized streets around Mehlplatz, Farbergasse, and Glockenspielplatz, known as the “Bermuda Triangle” of Graz, are perfect for bar hopping and meeting friends.

A typical dish in Graz is the Brettljause, a wooden sharing platter with local Styrian delicacies, often served in a Buschenshank along the Styrian wine routes. We tried our Brettljause at StadtSchenke, a restaurant that runs as a social project. This tiny café in the Lendplatz market serves fresh coffee in antique floral china with pretty cakes and pastries. They also offer brunch and light lunch, with everything fresh from the Graz markets.

Pumpkins thrive in Styria, and pumpkin seeds and pumpkin seed oil are ubiquitous in Graz. The ‘green gold’ of pumpkin seed oil makes a rich, nutty salad dressing and is even drizzled on ice cream. The seeds are also used in salads and coated in white chocolate for a healthy snack. Bottles of pumpkin oil, biscuits, and breads sprinkled with seeds are available at the market.

For foodie souvenirs, stop at the Royal Court Bakery Eddeger-Tax, known for its tiny Sissi kisses almond biscuits named after Empress Elizabeth of Austria. The bakery’s carved wooden front and gold eagle over the door reflect its royal patronage. They offer a variety of sweet biscuits and chocolates in pretty gift boxes.

As evening approaches, head to a cosy gasthaus to try some Styrian specialities. We recommend Stainzerbauer, with its traditional pub interior. I enjoyed pan-fried char on a bed of sweet potato and vegetables, while my companion had schnitzel with cranberries and parsley potatoes. The menu features classic dishes using local ingredients like pumpkins, volcano ham, horseradish, Styrian beef, and river fish, all cooked with a modern touch.

We flew direct from Birmingham to Graz with bmi regional, which offers flights three times a week. Alternatively, you can fly into Vienna and drive or take a coach to Graz. We stayed at the Boutique Hotel Dom in the old quarter of Graz, close to the cathedral. The hotel combines traditional elegance with modern comforts, featuring individually designed rooms with antique and modern furnishings. Our suite had a jacuzzi-style bath and a spacious sitting room. Breakfast included a selection of local foods, served in a light and airy courtyard dining room.

For more information on visiting Graz, check out the Graz Tourism website and visit the tourist information office at Herrengasse 16. The central area of Graz is easy to explore on foot, with many pedestrianized streets. Trams are free for a couple of stops in the central area, and tickets for longer journeys can be bought on board. We recommend the Boutique Hotel Dom for its friendly and comfortable atmosphere, individuality, and charm.