Today, we’re setting off on a hike in Austria along the Salzkammergut long-distance trail, starting from the lakeside town of Gmunden. Our journey will take us to a charming castle on the lake and through forests adorned with wooden carvings, finally enjoying a delicious lunch in a welcoming gasthaus, served on the characteristic green and white Gmunder plates. This is our second day hiking through Austria’s beautiful Salzkammergut region of lakes and mountains, exploring a new long-distance trail that can be tailored to be as relaxing or challenging as you wish, with over 20 well-marked sections to tour the area.

After our walk through the Almtal valley, we had a delightful stay in Gmunden, a pretty town with medieval streets rooted in the historic salt trade that named the Salzkammergut region. From our room at Seehotel Schwann, we could see Schloss Ort, a fairytale castle on the lake and our next destination.

Schloss Ort, with its onion dome tower and enclosed courtyard, sits on a small island connected to the shore by a wooden bridge. There has been a castle on this island since Roman times. It faces Schloss Lend, another grand building on the lake shore. Owned by the Hapsburg rulers until the 19th century, Schloss Ort served as a residence, fortress, and sometimes prison until it came under the management of the Gmunden community.

The castle attracts many visitors who are fans of the popular Austrian and German TV drama series, “Hotel Schloss Ort.” Filmed at the castle and the surrounding area from 1996 to 2004, the show still draws visitors, some of whom mistakenly think the castle is a real hotel and inquire about staying there.

Schloss Ort is a picturesque venue for fairytale weddings, with over 300 ceremonies held between May and October in various rooms. It can be visited by appointment or with a local guide to explore the courtyard, chapel, and a museum dedicated to mountain rescue teams. However, we experienced poor weather, so I’ve used photos to show what the castle looks like in sunny summer conditions.

Before leaving Gmunden, we also explored the hand-painted Geflammte green and white ceramics made at the Gmunder factory. Recognizing the traditional patterns in the tiled stoves of a lakeside gasthof, we visited the factory, which is open daily and just a short tram ride from the town center. There are factory tours twice daily, but you can visit the shop or try painting your own ceramic masterpiece anytime. If you visit Gmunden in August, don’t miss the famous Pottery Market on the esplanade.

From Schloss Ort, the Salzkammergut trail continues parallel to the lake and through Altmünster, then over forested slopes above the town with views back towards Traunsee. Due to rain, we took a lift and resumed the trail at Gasthof Reschenwirt. We crossed a meadow, followed roads between traditional houses with window boxes, and stopped for coffee at a bakery in Neukirchen, where the friendly owner made us excellent coffee. After a warm send-off, we continued the trail.

The path led uphill past a chapel, with views over the village and countryside. Cows grazed on the slopes, and traditional houses dotted the roads and lanes, with forests clothing the higher slopes. Despite the drizzle, we enjoyed the scenery and encountered a flock of sheep, where a ram stomped in warning as I tried to take a photo.

We reached Windlegernweg, a nature reserve popular for Sunday walks, marked by a Wishing Tree adorned with cloth pieces bearing wishes. The mist among the trees made us feel like Hansel and Gretel, following a trail of white stones laid on pine needles. Information signs educated us about the forest, including groves of beech and pines used for paper and building.

We encountered a friendly wooden sculpture spouting water into a trough. After hiking in relentless rain, our spirits lifted at the sight of Almgasthof Windlegern, where the friendly staff welcomed us and served a pine schnapps to warm us up. Lunch included venison carpaccio, goat’s cheese salad, and apple strudel on green-patterned Gmunder plates. We heard choral harmonies from a wedding party nearby. Though we wished to stay longer, we donned our rain ponchos to hike the final leg of the day’s trail.

We entered an eerie forest above the gasthof, navigating a steep, slippery slope over tree roots and rocks, relieved to find a better path running parallel to a mountain stream, leading us to Landgasthaus “In der Kreh,” our stop for the night. We settled into a cosy gasthaus at the intersection of several hiking routes, the only guests at the end of the summer season. Our comfortable apartment on the top floor had a lit stove and a view of the owner’s horses grazing nearby. The next morning, we enjoyed a hearty breakfast before continuing our hike on the Salzkammergut trail.

The Salzkammergut BergeSeen trail is a 350 km long-distance route inaugurated in spring 2017, covering the entire Salzkammergut region. It combines numerous local trails with new signage and maps, making it easy to hike individual sections or combine multiple stages. Each section is planned as a day’s hike, varying from 4 to 8 hours, with 20 sections in total. Most hikers, like us, choose to walk a few sections over several days. With excellent public transport, you can easily move between start points if you wish to skip a section.

Advanced Alpine Routes can be added, taking you high into the mountains, suitable for experienced hikers in good weather. Each stage ends at a location with accommodation options, making the trail a fantastic way to explore the region’s lakes, mountains, historic towns, and welcoming guesthouses and restaurants.

For more information, walking instructions, and maps, visit the Salzkammergut BergeSeen trail website. You can also purchase hiking guides and maps on Amazon to help plan your hike.