During our family holiday at Hullam Hostel on the shores of Lake Balaton in Hungary, we enjoyed a nightly tradition of eating stew cooked in a massive pot over an open fire. The warm weather allowed guests to relax in the open-air bar area next to the street, where they chatted, played cards, and listened to jazz and world music. Despite the hostel’s tiny guest kitchen, which had just a sink and a two-ring burner, they found a clever way to make it work.

Each night, the hostel served a different one-pot stew with fresh bread. We had Hungarian goulash one night and ham and cabbage another. The all-you-can-eat setup had us going back for more of the delicious home-cooked stew. The meals were very affordable, costing around £3-4 per person, making it a no-brainer to eat there even though there was a mini supermarket and a great greengrocer next door.

Around 4 PM, we would watch the young chef start chopping vegetables and adding them to the huge pot, which simmered for hours over the open fire. This communal cooking method is popular in Hungary, similar to how we might have a barbecue. We even saw many of these cooking pots for sale along the roadside.

I asked Hullam Hostel for their Hungarian goulash recipe to share with you, and here it is:

Hungarian Goulash (serves 10):
1. Stew 70 dkg of chopped onion in lard or oil on low heat until golden yellow.
2. Remove from heat and add 3 large spoonfuls of Hungarian red paprika powder.
3. Add 2 dl of water and 1 kg of beef (cut into 1-inch cubes). Return to high heat and cook until the meat is white and slightly fried.
4. Add a whole finely chopped garlic, 2 teaspoons of whole caraway seeds, some ground black pepper, 3 cubed tomatoes, and 2 sliced sweet paprikas (TV paprika).
5. Stir well, add 6-7 liters of water, and simmer on medium heat for three hours.
6. When the meat is nearly tender, add 70 dkg of peeled, cubed potatoes, 3 sliced parsnips, 5 sliced carrots, and 1 cubed celery root.
7. Cook until all ingredients are tender, and optionally add some finely chopped parsley.

Enjoy your homemade Hungarian Goulash!

Many thanks to Hullam Hostel in Revfulop for the recipe and the wonderful holiday experience at Lake Balaton in Hungary.