On the roof of the Hotel Elite Plaza in Gothenburg, there’s a statue of Mother Svea, the warrior princess symbolizing Sweden. She stands with a shield on one side and lions on the other, ready to defend her homeland. From our room on the 5th floor, just behind the statue, we enjoyed the same view as Mother Svea, overlooking the green copper rooftops of nearby elegant buildings and the canal surrounding the city’s central quarter.

The statue dates back to when the building served as the office of the Swedish Fire and Life Insurance company, Svea, which commissioned the building in 1890. They brought in all the city’s specialist firms to create a grand and impressive structure. The building features fine decorative stonework, marble columns and stairways, patterned terrazzo flooring, and sparkling chandeliers.

The Elite Plaza Hotel’s reception hall, to the left as you enter, was once the main insurance office. You can still stay in the luxurious Svea suite, which features beautiful wooden paneling and was once the private apartment of the General Manager. In the 1920s, the building was expanded with the open atrium of the Florentine hall and later became part of the University of Gothenburg before being turned into a hotel in 2000. The turn-of-the-century elegance is complemented by modern designer furnishings and striking artwork in the public areas on the ground floor.

After a long evening traveling from London Heathrow with Scandinavian Airlines, we arrived to find thick snow at the airport. As our taxi approached the center of Gothenburg, the snow turned to a light sheen of sleet on the pavement. We were relieved to be welcomed into the hotel and directed to the glass lift that took us straight to the 5th floor once we scanned our key card. We sank into our bed with an extremely comfortable memory foam mattress and slept soundly to the distant rumble of trams in the street below.

The next morning, we explored the Elite Plaza before venturing out to discover Gothenburg. Our superior room was a modern classic under the roof with sloping windows lined with silky soft curtains held in place by a brass rail. The room was warm, but the large glass windows could be opened at the top to allow fresh air. The neutral tones were highlighted with accents of deep pink and beige, and I loved the pink and lime figured velvet throw on the bed. The room was spacious, divided by a low wall to mount the flat-screen TV, allowing us to watch movies while tucked up in bed.

The other half of the room had a low armchair and a work area with a well-lit modern white desk and an internet point with free access. The internet was very fast, which was great for checking museum opening times. I also used the hotel wifi on my iPhone, but the long passcodes that only lasted a few hours were a bit of a hassle.

We loved the bathroom, which combined classic white marble tiles and a black granite vanity surface with modern sink and fittings. The bath was long enough for Guy, who is over 6 feet tall, and we both appreciated a long hot soak after our days out in Gothenburg. There were plenty of nice toiletries and white bathrobes, although there was a loose marble tile at the bottom of the bath. The wardrobes blended into the wall but contained plenty of hanging and shelf space, as well as an iron, ironing board, safe, and mini-bar.

After a good night’s rest, we enjoyed breakfast in the large Swea Hof restaurant, set in a former internal courtyard with a glass roof and dark green metal supports. The walls were painted in milky coffee shades with a black and white checkerboard tiled floor and softly padded dining chairs. The color was provided by red velvet curtains and banners of colorful artwork. The open kitchen had slightly art deco style light fittings and enormous cream shades hanging from the ceiling, creating a comfortable modern luxury atmosphere.

The breakfast buffet offered a huge variety and quality, with everything from nutty brown bread to local cheeses, fresh fruit, pastries, and cereals. The only downside was that the coffee came from a machine, and you had to pay extra for freshly brewed coffee. Later, we found that the hotel offered a traditional Christmas table of Julbord, including endless varieties of smoked salmon, herring, cured meats, and pickles.

The 5-star Hotel Elite Plaza is centrally located in Inom Vallgraven, making it easy to walk to most attractions or hop on a tram for longer journeys. Turning left out of the hotel, you can cross the canal, pass the City Museum, and reach the Kronhuset, an old artillery store with craft and gift shops and a delightful cafe. The harbor area features the Maritiman outdoor Maritime museum and the Gothenburg Opera house, with the nearby Lipstick tower offering a bird’s eye view from the 22nd floor.

Turning right out of the hotel, you can walk down Västra Hamngatan, passing the cathedral and exploring pedestrianized streets filled with fashion and homeware shops. You can visit the Feskekörka fish market or the Stora Salluhallen food hall for local delicacies. Walking down Kungsportsavenyn, you’ll find bars, eateries, and the Gothenburg City of Art, or you can take a tram to the Liseburg Amusement Park. The Gothenburg city card offers free entry to most attractions and public transport.

We loved returning to our cozy rooftop room at Hotel Elite Plaza after exploring Gothenburg. The view of Mother Svea and the rooftops of Gothenburg was perfect. Many hotel rooms are being renovated, bringing a fresher look to this classic luxury hotel, but we hope Mother Svea will remain to cast an approving eye over it all. If you’d like the same view, ask for room 504.