I recently spent a few days with friends in Somerset and North Devon, playing tourists and exploring the charming towns of Dunster, Dulverton, and Selworthy. This region of England is characterized by the wild landscapes of Exmoor National Park. However, the areas surrounding the moor are lush and rolling, with steep lanes and picturesque thatched cottages made from local stone or painted in rich cream hues.

Dunster, located on the northern edge of Exmoor near the sea, is a popular filming location for Agatha Christie costume dramas. It features many pretty cottages and the Dunster Castle, managed by the National Trust, perched on a hill. Unfortunately, the castle was closed for cleaning and renovation during our visit and was covered in scaffolding. Undeterred, we explored the gardens, enjoyed the sea views, and peeked into the orangery. We noticed a sign for the crypt that read “Ghosts here,” and saw a group emerging from a special tour of the castle’s attics and crypts. There were also signs for a bat tour, as bats roost in one of the medieval staircases.

We discovered Dunster Water Mill and tea rooms tucked down a lane, where we sat in the garden admiring the ducks in a pen at the other end. It’s a great spot for family ice creams or cream tea, but since it was lunchtime, we opted for cheese and ham baguettes. After browsing a few gift shops, buying fudge, and tasting local ice cream, we went in search of the perfect cream tea.

Next, we visited Dulverton on the southern edge of Exmoor, a delightful place to spend an hour or two. The town has interesting shops selling farm produce, antiquarian books, and stylish gifts and jewelry. We had lunch at a local gastropub called Woods, which has received rave reviews. It combines old-world charm with a modern, bustling atmosphere and delicious food. We both had salads—mine with scallops and prawns, and my friend’s with steak. My dish was a bit light, so I added a bowl of chips.

No visit to Devon is complete without trying a cream tea, and we found ours in Selworthy. This picture-perfect village, part of the Holnicote Estate owned by the National Trust, looks like something out of a calendar. Selworthy is a hamlet of thatched cottages, one of which you can rent, and another houses the Periwinkle Cottage Tea Rooms, which felt like a scene from a Beatrix Potter story. We enjoyed afternoon tea in the garden with warm scones, jam, and clotted cream, all served in rose-covered china with tea from a pot with a flowery tea cozy.

Even I was charmed by this idyllic vision of Englishness, which seems to exist only for tourists. My friend once brought a French exchange student here who devoured his scone before realizing it should be covered with jam and cream first—a bit like an English child figuring out how to eat oysters or garlic snails.

As we headed back to my friend’s house, it started to rain, and we noticed the roads were flooded in places, covered with mud and sticks. While we had been enjoying sunshine at the coast, there had been a downpour on the other side of Exmoor, flooding my friend’s garden from a nearby brook. This lush, green corner of England is known for its dairy herds that produce all that clotted cream.