The Texas Hill Country is the area between San Antonio and Austin where the flat plains transition into rolling hills, dotted with small towns established in the 19th century by Swedish and German settlers. Last year, we explored this region and discovered many things that seemed unusual to our European eyes, despite sharing a nearly common language. Here are some highlights from our drive around the Texas Hill Country:

In England, a barbecue typically means sausages and burgers cooked over smoky charcoal, but in Texas, it’s a whole different experience. At Black’s BBQ in Lockhart, they’ve been serving authentic Texan BBQ since the 1940s. They use only the finest beef brisket, marinated and slowly cooked over oak chippings for 12 hours until it’s tender and delicious. We lined up for our salads and sides, then loaded our plates with brisket sold by weight. We enjoyed our meal at red-checked tables, surrounded by hunting trophies and sports photos. Afterward, we got a behind-the-scenes kitchen tour to feel the heat of the ovens and learn more about the meticulous process of trimming and cooking the brisket for that authentic BBQ taste.

On our way back to Interstate 35, we stopped for something sweet at the Texas Pie Company in Kyle, easily recognizable by the huge slice of cherry pie on the roof. Their slogan, “Life’s short, eat more pie,” was tempting enough, and with flavors like fudge pecan, lemon chess, and strawberry peach, we didn’t need much encouragement. The wall featured a picture of chief pie-maker Julie Albertson, who uses her grandmother’s recipes to create 18 different pie flavors, available in individual sizes and the classic 10-inch size. You’ll find homemade pies like these in many local bakeries and diners – a true taste of Texan home cooking.

We passed through the German settler town of New Braunfels and stopped at the smaller historic district of Gruene. A popular local activity, especially in the sweltering Texas summer, is rafting or tubing on the Guadalupe River. Although it was a bit early in the season, we rented tubes at Rockin’R by the river and opted for tubing since there wasn’t enough water for rafting. The company owns several campgrounds along the river, so you can drift downstream and then get a lift back to the starting point. It took about an hour and a half to reach the pick-up point, and we enjoyed the view of fabulous houses along the banks and river turtles sunning themselves on logs. There were occasional small rapids to add a bit of excitement, but nothing too challenging.

After drying off and returning our tubes, we explored Gruene Historic District, which has plenty of cafes, antique and souvenir shops, and an old-fashioned drug store serving Blue Bell ice cream. We also visited the famous Honky Tonk Dance Hall and had a bite to eat at Cantina Del Rio, a colorful Mexican cafe with a deck overlooking the river where we enjoyed excellent tacos and fajitas.

Further west, we headed to Bandera, a small town with big ambitions that calls itself the “Cowboy Capital of the World.” Our goal was to embrace the cowboy spirit with a trail ride at the Silver Spur Ranch, one of the many guest and dude ranches in the area. While the ranch offers week-long stays with activities like campfire gatherings, lasso lessons, and even rodeos, we opted for an hour’s ride into the Hill Country State Natural Area. Although my city legs were aching afterward, we enjoyed our time on the gentle horses, perfect for novice riders like us.

While staying in San Antonio, we spent a day at Picosa Ranch and were recommended to stop at Cabela’s on our drive north to Austin. This enormous warehouse store has everything an outdoor enthusiast might need, with a camping section upstairs. It was a real eye-opener for us regarding Texas gun culture. The first thing we saw was a big sign asking customers to check their guns at the door, followed by an entire wall of guns of all shapes and sizes. My 19-year-old son was thrilled to try the feel of a real gun at a stand, and some parts of the store felt almost like a theme park, with central displays of stuffed animals and details of where they were shot and by whom. In another room, there were more stuffed animals and a model of a hunter who would start talking when a button was pressed. For a city family who would never go hunting, this was definitely one of those “only in America” moments.

San Antonio, the southern border of the Texas Hill Country, is home to The Alamo, one of Texas’s must-see attractions. The Alamo is the remains of the chapel and buildings of the old Spanish Mission, significant in the struggle for Texan Independence from Mexico. In 1836, a couple of hundred volunteers made a last stand against the Mexican Army led by General Santa Anna. Although they were all killed, the episode became a turning point in the war for Texan Independence with the rallying cry of “Remember the Alamo.” The monument is not as large as you might expect, but the attraction is free, and the chapel and long barracks contain plenty of historical information, with several courtyards and pleasant gardens.

After visiting The Alamo, we rented bikes from the shop behind the Visitor Centre and cycled along the riverbank through the historic King William district, overlooked by old mansions and greenery. Gradually, the river widened to become Mission Reach, with a cycle path that takes you to the other Spanish Missions just outside San Antonio. Eventually, we reached Mission San Jose, known as the “Queen of Missions” for its size and beauty, with a church featuring a carved stone facade under restoration and a working water mill where there was a demonstration on grinding grain. On the way back, we stopped at the Blue Star Brewing Company, where you can see the big steel brewing containers behind the bar, although I ordered a refreshing glass of iced tea.

The Texas Hill Country has much more to offer, including vineyards, interesting small towns, and beautiful wildflowers, making it ideal for a few days of touring by car. You can also combine it with stops in Houston, San Antonio, and Austin for a holiday that showcases the best of Texas.