Here we go again on the Tour de Mont Blanc! This was the fourth (and we hoped the final) year that my friend Julia and I were back in the Alps, walking a section of the Tour de Mont Blanc. The TMB is one of the great mountain hikes of the world that takes you over 10-12 days on a circular route around the Mont Blanc Massif through France, Switzerland, and Italy. We’d really enjoyed our walks in previous years, with bright sunny days and glorious mountain views. The final leg in early September would take us from Courmayeur in Italy, where we finished last year, around to Les Houches in the Chamonix valley where we started 3 years before. We had mixed feelings as we set off from our hotel in Courmayeur; excited to be back in the mountains with the forecast for sunshine, combined with relief at knowing that our Tour de Mont Blanc would finally be complete this year.

The day’s walk took us up out of the Courmayeur valley, through the pretty hamlet of Dolonne, and zig-zagging up through a forest on a dry dusty path that finally followed the line of the cable car up the mountain. After the first cable car station at Plan Checrouit, the vista opened up and the forest gave way to open meadow, with a scattering of chalets. Further up the hill, we passed the second cable car station at Col Checrouit and came over the crest to see Refuge Vielle Maison, set in a bowl between one valley and the next, known as the Fauteuil des Allemands (the German armchair).

The path now rose again behind the Refuge until we found ourselves on a long balcony path along the Val Veni with mountain peaks to our right across the valley, rising finally to Mont Favre, the highest point of the day’s walk at 2430m. From here it was downhill through meadows and beside a rushing stream down to the milky blue Lac Combal and along a flat, marshy valley until finally the path rose again up to Rifugio Elisabetta at 2195m.

The path took us just below Rifugio Elisabetta and past the ruins of the old military barracks, before following a level track along the Vallon de la Lée Blanche. Gradually we climbed uphill past the Casermetta information centre and up to the Col de la Seigne for fabulous panoramic views at 2500m. Over the pass, we now crossed the border from Italy into France and descended on endless winding grassy paths to the bottom of the Vallée des Glaciers, where we stopped for a picnic lunch at Refuge de Mottets.

Then it was across the river, through the hamlet of Ville des Glaciers, and along the small road above the river for an hour or more until we reached the village of Chapieux at the other end of the valley. We were thankful that we’d chosen to shorten the route outlined in the guide book, which would have taken us on a further arduous climb up to Refuge Bonhomme, while instead we had a pleasant afternoon sitting in the sunny garden of the Auberge de la Nova, where we spent the night.

On this part of the Tour de Mont Blanc, we stopped at the following hotels and mountain refuges:

In Courmayeur, we stayed at Hotel Villa Novecento, a beautifully decorated 4-star hotel with elegant, traditional furnishings and antiques. We paid €114 for an en suite twin room with excellent breakfast and very friendly service.

Rifugio Elisabetta – one of the nicest and best-run refuges, in an isolated position at 2200m, with wifi but limited phone signal. We paid €50 per person per night for half board (dinner and breakfast) in a 2-bed private bunk room.

In Chapieux, we stayed at Auberge de la Nova, a friendly inn at one end of the valley at 1550m with private and dorm rooms and a large restaurant and garden. We paid €43 per person per night for half board (dinner and breakfast) in a 12-person dorm.

To reach Courmayeur, we flew to Geneva and took our pre-booked airport transfer to Chamonix for €29 + tax one way with Chamexpress. From Chamonix SNCF station, we took the bus service operated by Altibus for the 45-minute journey through the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Courmayeur. During the summer until the beginning of September, there are 6 services per day and the cost was €14 one way. After 1 September, there may be less frequent departures, so check the SAT website for details.